The WineRi festival also included the association Jarbola, named after an autochthonous grape sort from Zvoneća, a mountainous area in the Rijeka’s hinterland. For centuries people cultivated this sort in “Zvonejske njivi”, a splendid example of rural architecture of stone dry walls, akin to the Bakar Prezidi.
Zvonejske njivi date somewhere between 15th and 17th centuries, and cover an area of 60 ha, on rather high 300 up to 450 metres above sea level. This height determines a distinctive acidity of local wine. Today only some 30 per cent of dry walls are cultivated, but nevertheless the locals are happy they are preserved as monument of culture since 1994.
Wine maker Franko Ružić and other Zvoneća enthusiasts (Alen Kinkela, Marin Ružić, Alen Ružić, Gordan Kinkela, Đani Sušanj, and Ervin Stanić) gathered together in 2003 and with help of Institute for agriculture and tourism in Poreč realised a project of protecting the autochthonic sort Jarbola. This authenticity was proved by chemical analysis.
Unprecedented love for culture and heritage drives this association to work hard and accomplish remarkable renewal of the Jarbola. In 2005 they harvested first vine in old dry walls and cared for it full five years to deliver first drops of real wine. Jarbola is not an easy sort. The grape skin is thin, the bunch thick, and this makes it vulnerable to sickness.
Once accomplished, Jarbola gives full quality and freshness, with aromatic potentials, and various possibilities to explore blending it with local food. It has light yellow colour with green nuances, fruity bouquet with some blossoms and very strong aroma of green apple. Today only family homestead Ružić bottles this wine in a unique Kvarner product – Jarbola Ružić.
Zvoneća 17, Jurdani, 51211 Matulji
+385 91 509 7932
Photos by: OPG Ružić
For the first time town of Rijeka hosted an international wine event in its historic Governer’s Palace. An enjoyable event gathered over 70 wine makers on February 22 and 23 to somewhat uncharted territory of wine exploration in the third Croatian largest city and the country’s major sea port.
B2B meetings, lectures, workshops, and not to forget the WTF – Wine Tasting Fest, of course – party in the “Bačva” club and Wine&Coffee Bar “Kod Zajca” adorned the oeno-gastro event with participation of Par Business School, several Croatian counties and cities, tourist organisations and high-level officials.
The grand palace of Rijeka’s history was too small for such a big number of exhibitors and guests looking to try some new stuff and recollect the old wine love. Our own grand tour of the palace began in the atrium, where some of the most famous Croatian wine makers were present. As it was expected in the end of Carnival season, the wine makers and their friends were greeted by the bell ringers.
The entry point occupied Curo distribution, the Jarbola Association with a specific wine story of authentic Zvoneće wine, and Krk’s favourite Ivan Katunar whose žlahtina and chardonnay are nationally famous. Going clockwise, Katunar’s neighbour in clifftop town of Vrbnik is Gospoja wine hotel, a boutique hotel of local traditional architecture and indeed an enjoyable place to spend your wine holiday. Local Rijeka’s pride is LikeRi, a liqueur home of lemon and mint, and aronia liqueur, but special varieties include the white wine Žlahtina’s liqueur and especially interesting cannabis brandy MamyJuana.
This local introduction to the Kvarner wines included also other members of Žlahtina Association, named after famed golden island Krk and Vinodol Wine, which include prize winning Pavlomir Winery (where old traditions of wine growing have been renewed), Šipun Winery, House of Wine Ivan Katunar, Agricultural Association Vrbnik, and Nada Winery (that includes beautiful restaurant), all based in Vrbnik, centre of wine production on largest Croatian Adriatic island. Next to the littoral, the home county also proudly presented excellent and unique story of Vid Arbanas from Gorski Kotar, with his splendid brandies made from handpicked herbs and roots.
Slavonia was overwhelmingly presented at this fair. Slavonia has excellent conditions for winegrowing and winemaking. In the past, the wines of Slavonia were often found on the tables of emperors and noblemen and it is this tradition that the present Slavonian vineyards derive from: Srijem, Baranja and Đakovo in the east and Kutjevo in the west of Slavonia.
The atrium featured excellent Slavonian wineries, Galić from Velika (with standard but top wines from this terroir); Belje wines which proudly presented its “Danube Prince” Graševina that is awarded with numerous praises; and Pinkert from the Baranja’s Kneževi Vinogradi, more than a century old vineyard where Frankovka, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Graševina give the best from the land bounded by two rivers, Drava and Danube. Here is also Trs Winery from Ilok, the easternmost Croatian town, which is an agricultural community that produces “eight jewels of the Srijem terroir” (Graševina, Rhein Riesling, Chardonnay, Traminer, Frankovka, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Franka). The same wine area is home to the Krešić Winery from Šarengrad near Vukovar.
Buhač from Ilok further accentuated the red wines of Slavonia, while Krauthaker, Perak, Mitrović, and Tandara present the legendary wine territory of Kutjevo, wine growing area known from Roman times to the Templar Knights, monastic orders, right to the present day, giving an enduring name of Vallis Auera – the Golden Valley. Iuris Winery from Dalj is yet another example of ever greater tradition of Slavonian wines. This tradition is well known in the Feravino, which inherits two hundred years of tradition of wine making in Ferinčanci region. Wines from Erdut is another Slavonian brand, especially considering the white wines. Vitis Josipović is a great choice for anyone into the sparkling wines.
From Pleternica arrives Vina Markota, a rather unknown winery but with a very nice story of wine-and-rose, which the family cultivates together while offering classic Slavonian white and red wines. Also from Baranja one should try Kusić, Szabo, and Dobrovac wines. Ever growing demand is for the Slavonian red wines, which have great possibilities, such as the line of red wines from Papak Winery. This trend notwithstanding, white wines still make majority of Slavonian offer, such as the beautiful wines from Agricultural Association Orahovica which also grows hazelnuts and freshwater fish. Many Slavonian family homesteads now combine wine growing with additional agricultural business; one of these is Glavaš from Bizovac which also makes excellent semi-hard cow cheese.
Second most presented Croatian region was Istria. Wine has become a must in Istria. Naturally, times have changed, and recently, wine is not so important for the economic prosperity of this region; however, it strongly accounts for the development of a unique Istrian identity.
Noble presenters of Istrian heritage included north-western Istrian wine celebrities such as Prelac from Momjan, Savudrija’s Degrassi, Umag’s Monte Rosso, Buje’s Franković and Kabola; and Moreno Ivančić from Novigrad. This Istrian area is among the most developed wine area in Croatia. Malvasia, Teran, and Muscat grow beautifully here, and wine makers care for the heritage of local viticulture.
Poreč terroir was presented by Banko Winery, which also produces olive oil, while other Central Istrian Wineries were presented by family Deklić which will in 2020 celebrate a centenary of its existence; Legovina from Kaštelir with its beautiful Malvasias; Poletti, where six generations care for the viticulture; Vicinim, where you can also try donkey milk and meat; and sparkling wine producer Peršurić Misal from Višnjan; Pilato and Franc Arman from Vižinada. From Gračišće arrives a newbie Domaine Koquelicot, which produces French style burgundy wines, in a unique and still untested mix of Istria and France.
Medea was a wine emissary from Southern Istria, delivering its “passionate wines”, while from Eastern Istria comes Licul Romeo. A very special Istrian representative is Buzet’s Aura, the house of exclusive Istrian brandies.
Other regions were rather scarcly presented. From Dalmatia came only Skaramuča from Pelješac, giving a pleasure of tasting famous Dingač, while Kopjar from Budinšćina extinguished Zagorje eco-wine with Sauvignon Blanc, Rhein Riesling, and Pinot Noir. Kos-Jurišić winery from Donja Zelina presented the Zelina terroir near Zagreb.
As Slavonia was in the centre of interest on this festival, it is only natural to learn more about palates going along rich red wines and gentle whites of this historical Croatian region.
We await for this noble wine gathering to become a tradition in the European Culture Capital 2020, in the Port of Diversity.
When an imaginative restaurant is opened in former factory, it is only worthy of praises, but our own arrival to the Tifan restaurant in eastern outskirts of Rijeka was also full of impressions. Namely, there aren’t many places in Croatia that give so much attention to the healthy gastronomy, active holiday, yoga, meditation, and care for the environment – everything in one place!
Our first intention was to visit yet another vegetarian restaurant in Kvarner region, but we found so much more in Tifan. The combination of health, past experience, and travels of owners result in a particular offer, possibly unique in whole Croatia. If you are looking for meat-free, alcohol-free, and smoking-free environment, with only fresh ingridients on the plate, Tifan is the right place for you.
Tifan is closely connected to the Dharma hostel, another interesting facility, providing accommodation in the healthy environment. A beautiful terrace and garden provide a blissful view on the sea, giving a feeling we are sitting somewhere far from the city. In this tranquil setting we are introduced to the international vegetarian dishes served in tifans.
The name of this food bar is based on an inox pot, a kind of lunch box used widely in Indian for tiffin meals. Normally they come in two or three tiers, and as the bar has take-out options, members of Tifan club have their own tifans at home and use it for multiple purpose. Zypically it contains a soup, main course, and piece of cake. Tiffin, on the other hand, is an Indian-English word for a light midday meal, luncheon. In Indian Subcontinent, tiffin is generally a snack between meals, consisting mainly of rice, dal, curry, vegetables, chapatis, and spicy meats.
In Croatian Mediterranean environment it fits the “gamelice”, also lunch boxes full of food prepared early in the morning for people at work or for children in school. Thus, it makes a solid basis for slow food, home-cooked meals, with preserved tradition of healthy nutrition. Same can be ordered up until 10 am at Tifan bar, and lunch is served between 11 and 1.30 pm. In the restaurant itself, you can enjoy three-course lunch until 4 pm (exept Sundays) for only 30-35 kuna!
We enjoyed tifan lunch as well, in genious style of local and Balkan cuisine. The use of international and national healthy and no-meat ingridients gives an opportunity always to reinvent lunch choices, and tells a lot about the imagination of cooks. We had originally Macedonian lunch of spicy baked beans (gravče na tavče), served with polenta and aubergines, along with cucumber and lettuce salad. With a touch of chilly and turmeric, this main meal had a distinctive Macedonian-Indian twist, with addition of tomato sauce made from the tomatoes in nearby home garden. Delicious and plentiful, it is always a winning combination for luncheons!
More than 40 spices, both Mediterranean herbs and Asian spices, are present in Tifan, some bought directly from India, some grown in the garden itself. Other ingridients originate mostly from the local homesteads or bought from the town market. The owners prepare homemade marmelade, hummus and other spreads. Cooks are dilligent in making various sweets and we had a Turkish-style baclava with deeply felt walnuts and excellent honey, brought from a northern Croatian honeymaker.
Everything in Tifan is based on dharma, a particular relation between man and nature, rightful behaviour, and sort of synonym for sustainable growth and development. Indeed, with additional Dharma Hostel, and Yoga Training Centre, we predict a bright future for dharma-based getaway.
Spinčićeva 2, 51000 Rijeka
mob: +385 98 850 019
faks: +385 51 583 574
June 13-16, Rijeka
After 1st successful Zagreb Pancake Festival „Pancake Days“, this great event is travelling to Rijeka for the celebration of the Day of the city of Rijeka also known as St. Vid Days.
Here you can taste many festival cocktails that are combined specially with many different pancakes. Also, you can find out how do Dutch Poffertjes, Japanese from Confusion Buddha Bar or Mexican Master Grill BBQ pancakes taste like. We offer you healthy vegetarian pancakes also gluten free.
If you like good Rakia, you will enjoy their RAKIA BAR that promotes 60-year-old recipes and tradition in Rakia making called BB Klenovača.
June 1 – June 7, Rijeka
Cherries are harbingers of summer. Due to possessing a high level of antioxidants, cherries one of 25 foods that reduce aging effects and are ranked third among fruits that lower blood cholesterol and reduce the risk of heart disease. The anthocyanin that gives cherries their bright red colour has anti-inflammatory properties. Fresh cherries help reduce physical and mental exhaustion, while sour cherries help uplift your mood.
Cherries are part of the rose family and originate from Asia Minor. Depending on the sort, cherries can ripen either in May or June. In these parts, the best known sort is the biggest and the most succulent one, the so-called brtošinka, named after the seaman Brtošin, who supposedly brought it here from South America. It is the most succulent in mid-June, during the celebration of St. Vitus, the patron saint of Rijeka.
Those are just some of the reason why you should check out the Cherry week in Rijeka!
There’s a legend saying a Greek god who went by the name Dionysus was the first one ever to try a sardine, offering her eternal life in exchanging for switching sea for wine in his goblet. But it rejected him, saying: „sea is my home, I belong to fishermen and sea folk on every coast, island and port, and my duty is to satyisfy human hunger!“ And so it was.
Sardine is often called „The queen of sea“, because it fed numerous generations. Ingredients don’t have to be expensive to be healty, and sardines are the best proof of this being rich in healthy fats such as omega-3, which have huge benefits for human health.
Come and visit gastro days in Rijeka and find out for yourself!
Rijeka, April 5-12
A vegetable fit for a king, a treasure trove of health, food, medicine, and an aphrodisiac all in one…. are just some of the epithets used by asparagus aficionados worldwide to describe their fascination with the plant that has been considered a symbol of life and nature awakening from their respective slumbers since time immemorial.
Asparagus (lat. Asparagus officinalis) is one of the oldest self-seeding plants in the Mediterranean with records of its medicinal benefits existing for thousands of years. Its strong detoxifying effect is the result of the amino acid asparagine that cleanses the body of the toxins that accumulate during the winter and strengthens the immune system.In the rest of the word asparagus is usually grown, but Croatian cuisine favours the wild asparagus found in forests that has an intense and bitter aroma and is supposedly laden with minerals and vitamins, which are good grounds for addition to a healthy spring menu. Asparagus or šparuge, which is the local sobriquet, is a part of folk tradition, as the locals spend the entire season harvesting it on steep and unapproachable slopes.
Although it is common in Croatia, asparagus season lasts the longest in the northern Adriatic. It is a mainstay of Kvarner cuisine, especially during Easter, when it signals the blossoming of life and the return to the outside world. The Christian iconography is best exemplified in the gastronomical blend of asparagus and eggs, the fritaje, which is a common way of preparing asparagus in the region. It is an excellent complement to sea food, especially the sweet Kvarner prawn with sheep’s curd, a natural symbiosis of Kvarner right there on your plate!
Već dvadeset i sedam godina obitelj Zec vodi legendarnu konobu „Girica“ na riječkim Podmurvicama. Kao i svaka obiteljska lokalna konoba i Girica je dio posebnosti riječkih naselja koje sa sobom nose sjećanja i posebno njegovanje na lokalnu prošlost i obiteljsku baštinu. A Girica je možda i posebnija, jer je obitelj pristigla iz Linardića s otoka Krka, koji se nazire onkraj novogradnje obližnjeg Turnića. Upravo od tamo, u toj staroj krčkoj ribarskog obitelji, rodio se i pradjed današnjih vlasnika Josip Linardić koji nosi sasvim posebnu priču vezanu za prošlost Kvarnera.
I dok gosti čekaju hranu uz isključivo domaće ekološki uzgojeno vino iz okolice Višnjana u Istri, na zidovima konobe mogu vidjeti da je Josip Linardić dobio spomenicu austrougarske mornarice za svoju predanost u borbi u Prvom svjetskom ratu. Tako se u malenom kutku Podmurvica može utonuti i u prošlost koju ovih godina izražajnije obilježavamo, kroz spomenicu izvezenu zlatnim nitima na kojoj piše: Ponosno se vije barjak crno-žuto-plav i bieli, vjeram sam mu sve do smrti i u ratnoj pogibelji. I uz mirise svježe kvarnerske kuhinje, pogled zastaje na slikama sa starim jedrenjacima i uspomenama iz tko zna kojeg kutka svijeta, od pomoraca koji su toliko obilježili Rijeku i kvarnerski kraj. Isti taj Linardić kasnije je srušio njemački borbeni zrakoplov u Drugom svjetskom ratu, a olupine tog aviona i danas leže na dnu Kvarnerskog zaljeva.
A takav lokalpatriotizam očituje se i na stolu konobe Girica, gdje je nemoguće pronaći zalogaj koji nije obilježen zemljopisnom blizinom. Kao i u svim dobrim restoranima, jelovnik ćete teško vidjeti, ali ćete imati susretljiv razgovor s konobarom koji će neminovno ukazati na svježu kvarnersku ribu, hobotnice, nezaobilazan bakalar petkom. U zimsko doba se Giricom razliježe poznati miris bakalara na bijelo koji stalni gosti cijene još od 1988., kada je tu otvoren ugostiteljski objekt.
Prije toga, obitelj Zec je imala ribarnicu i koču. Naknadno je ostala samo ribarnica, a od garaže koja je služila za izradu tunja preinakom je napravljen današnji restoran. Neke druge koče danas nose iste plodove Riječkog zaljeva, uz što idu žlahtina, malvazija, ali i najstarija istarska vinska sorta hrvatica. Od crnih vina se na stolu nađe teran borgonja, sve s vinorodnih položaja oko Višnjana. Za ozbiljnije „igrače“ tu su domaće rakije biska, medica, pelinkovac i travarica.
I tako se svaki dan sljubljuje to vino sa crnim rižotom ili onim sa škampima, a posebno je naglasak stavljen i na sezonske šparoge. Popularne marende dolaze u obliku sitne plave ribe, girica, inćuna, srdela, trilja. Uz nezaobilazne lignje, nađe se ovdje i pokoja raža i pas, a škampi na buzaru, jastog, hlap i grdobina razvesele i ponekog turista koji je čistom preporukom stigao do Girice. I oni sada znaju da će u Girici dobiti opuštenu atmosferu, s predanim odnosom prema gostu i hranom koja je iskrena i jednostavno dobra.
Vukovarska 65a, 51000 Rijeka
Radno vrijeme: 09-23