At the Wine Wednesday AfterWork, organized by Marija Vukelić's Golden Words company in Zagreb's Roots Bar, young wines from the young BELL'IAKOV wineries from Hvar were presented. Bell'Iakov Winery is named after the family of Marija Carić because in Svirče, most of the residents have a surname Plenković or Carić, so they all have some addition to the surname.
Most Hvar wineries have a long family tradition, and the Bell'Iakov winery is only in its second year. Both the vineyards and the Bell'Iakov winery are young so the oldest plantations are 9 years old and most of the vineyards are just coming to fruition. They are located on the southern slopes of Hvar around Ivan Dolac and a small part in the old town which is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. In addition to the varieties and wines that they offer today - Bogdanuša, Prč, Plavac mali - the winery announces in the near future also Pošip and Vugava from Hvar. The most important varieties of Hvar - Plavac mali, prč and bogdanuša, are presented at Roots wine Wednesday, with the inevitable pink opol! The young owner of the winery Marijo Carić presented his wines.
The tasting started with Bogdanuša 2019, the original variety of the island of Hvar. The wine is slightly elevated acid, low alcohol (11.5%) and varietal aroma. A favourite bite was the young cow cheese Veronica and pieces of dried apricot. BOGDANUŠA (bogdanjuša) is an autochthonous variety of the island of Hvar, which has been cultivated in the Agera area since ancient times. The white variety that regularly produces quality wine is appreciated. It is used to produce varietal wine, but it also provides excellent combinations with other indigenous white varieties. Her name means God-given, which is associated with traditional wine drinking during church holidays.
The second wine was Prč 2019, wine of lower acids and intense interesting (nutmeg) aromas. One of the possible explanations for the name of the variety speaks of the specificity of the aroma. The prč is a male goat that has a very intense odour during the mating season. So is the wine with a spice that tasted with a mouthful of young goat cheese. The third wine was Opol 2019 from the position of Ivan Dolac, another unconventional wine that defies the established practice. "Our winemakers resented the fact that we make rosé from the small town from the famous Ivan Dolac locality, and not the mighty and mature black man, and wondered where it is calculated that we make rosé from such excellent raw material. But after great impressions in the first year of harvest 2018, this year we have continued with our opole Ivan Dolac, ”said Marijo Carić. Opol 2019 is characterized by aromatic, fruity, delicate freshness and cheerful appeal, served with Dern prosciutto.
In the end, the pride of Hvar Plavac Mali - Ivan Dolac 2018 was tasted. 14.1% alc., unfiltered wine, nourished in stainless steel containers and Hvar carob cake, prepared by Mario's wife Victoria. Plavac mali is the most economically important grape variety in Dalmatia, with a long history. It is grown from the far south of Dalmatia, mostly on the Pelješac and southern Dalmatian islands (Hvar, Brač, Korčula and Vis), but it can be found in vineyards north along the coast all the way to Zadar. As an old and widespread variety, it has received several names (synonyms), so in different places it is called by different names such as red small, pagadebit black, kaštelanac, etc. However, the basic, most common and official name of the variety is "plavac mali ". Plavac mali is a very old variety, originated in the territory of southern Dalmatia, more than 250 years ago, by spontaneous crossing of two even older varieties, Dobričić of Šolta and a medieval tribidrig (syn. Pribidrag, Crljenak kaštelanski, primitive, zinfandel, kratosija). The impressive history of viticulture in Hvar began even before the arrival of the ancient Greek settlers who planted their vines there in 384 BC.
The winegrowing of Hvar by soil composition, position and varieties can be divided into three different parts: the southern slopes, the terraces at the edges of the Old Town Field and Old Town Field. The vineyards were also there in the Greek and Roman times, which is known for the rectangular ancient parcellation of the field, which is mostly present today and in which the vine is still cultivated. Today, native white varieties prevail here: bogdanusha, slice, maraschina, rubljan and others.
The vineyards on the south side of the island are completely different, much harsher and more picturesque. They can be reached from the field only by a narrow tunnel, pierced by the vineyards in Pitve. To fully experience this winegrowing region, one has to look at it from the sea, because the gravelly slope of the vineyards slopes steeply towards the sea. In addition to these harsh locations are vineyards in an area called Hvar beaches, and the entire location is enhanced by the picturesque towns of Ivan Dolac and Sveta Nedjelja.
Photos by: Julio Frangen