Updated: Sep 21, 2020
Goložec is a gastronomic Bon vivant that enjoys all the edible tastes of the world. At least a little Goložec hides in each of us, and so many Goložec people come to Vrsar that they decided to make a gastronomic festival for them - Goložece di Orsera. Of course, this was an event that we could not miss, and coming to Vrsar often means heading to one of the oldest restaurants that operate continuously on the Adriatic - restaurant Trošt.
It is located in a pleasant corner of the Vrsar marina, opposite the island of Sveti Juraj. It has been present here since 2001, but the restaurant of the Trošt family was opened back in 1988, and the head chef Željko Brajković has been running the kitchen since 1998. Like any culinary institution, Trošt feels a special touch of gastronomic tradition in the pairing of fish and meat traditions of Istria. It is not at all strange that the Goložece in Trošt are just a beautiful offshoot of that region, and Klara Trošt Lesić, the customer service manager, introduced us to the whole story. We sit on the terrace of the restaurant, admire the boats anchored in the beautiful September sun and observe the Vrsar landscape with a glass of Istrian herb brandy ruda. This wonderful Istrian aperitif, prepared from the rue plant and the grape brandy, introduces us to the hospitality of the restaurant, which for many years has been declared one of the hundred leading Croatian restaurants according to the Gastronaut classification.
It is still hot weather on the Adriatic, so we skipped the fish soup, but that’s why we enjoyed the ravioli stuffed with cheese in mushroom sauce. It is an unavoidable announcement of the coming autumn, and Istria is known for its mushroom destinations. Trošt's generational business is also a large and even personal connection with suppliers of products from the surrounding area. It’s nice to hear when one catering family grows along with fishermen, farmers, hunters, olive growers and mushroom pickers. Meetings over the years form special connections that are hidden beyond the plates full of freshness, home-made craftsmanship and generosity of Istrian hospitality.
The fish fritto plate with chard brought to our table a breaded delight of squid, shrimp and small bluefish, as an invitation to some more tempting flavours in Trost, such as pljukanci with shrimps and porcini mushrooms or pasta with lobster. All other fish come exclusively from local fishermen, in a symbiosis that would be utterly insane if it did not exist, given the maritime wealth that lies at hand. Shrimp and scallops are supplied from the Kvarner area and Dalmatia. There are also homemade squids, various shellfish, crabs, octopuses. These goložece are best accompanied by Malvazija from the Damjanić winery.
Trošt remains a part of the history of many families who spent their baptisms, weddings and family celebrations in the pleasant ambience of the inner hall with a marble fireplace and paintings of old Vrsar. Here one gets the impression of how much this small town of typical Mediterranean charm and medieval romance has developed. It preserves the tradition of the table, which is quite typical for Istria, as well as the entire coast - simple but good food that returns as a gastronomic hit. For lovers of meat specialities, there is Istrian prosciutto, baked veal with potatoes, venison and various grilled dishes. Our meat delicacy was just a soft and delicious veal that melts in your mouth. Along with Cabernet from the Pilato winery, this is a hearty reminder that meals made under the iron lid are also an important ingredient in Croatian gastronomic excursions.
When summer tourists leave the western coast of Istria, and among the cobbled streets of Vrsar one can feel the bora and the south wind, in Trošt they are already thinking about moving Goložec people to a tavern decorated in Istrian style with a large fireplace where grilled dishes are prepared throughout the year. It is wonderful to stay among old paintings and useful objects of the past, and from those somewhat forgotten times Klara Trošt Lesić remembers her grandmother who made gnocchi with peach and fig jam, and she enjoys a simple dessert, motanica. Dip old bread in eggs, fry it and sprinkle with sugar, and it is done! We were served a cake made of Vrsar amaretto, as a reminder of traditional rustic desserts with a juicy biscuit and amaretto. There have always been a lot of hazelnuts in the vicinity of Vrsar, so this amaretto is made with hazelnuts, and not as usual with almonds, and vanilla cream, which is a complete hit in the flavours of gourmets.
A visit filled with pleasure and hospitality in Vrsar is not possible without visiting the gastronomic tradition of the Trošt family, which stands as a memorial of the local culinary tradition at the level of every Goložec!
Obala Maršala Tita 1 A, Vrsar
T: +385 (0)52 445 197