Wine with Spoon and Vješalica

The last edition of this year's 'Wine with the Spoon' project was held at Zagreb's Magazinska klet Pri Stari smokvi. Although this gastronomic event was called 'Wine with the Spoon', grilled specialties were first on the menu: đevrek with kajmak and stuffed vješalica with baked beans. Three restaurants operate under the Magazinska klet brand in Zagreb. One of them Pri staroj smokvi (At the Old Fig’s Tree) in Strojarska Street near the Bus Station is a synonym for the Leskovac style barbecue, but Chief Chef Vladimir Filipović, who coordinates the work of all three restaurants, does not neglect dishes with a spoon. These dishes were the reason for the authors of the project "Wine by the spoon", journalists Renata Cisar and Mustafa Topčagić, who embarked on a new gastronomic adventure with their permanent associate Domagoj Jakopović Ribafish.

The journalists, who are exclusively involved in these promotions, were greeted with a sparkling cocktail, a combination of Aura from Buzet: Gin Karbun-Tonic-Teranino. The aperitifs of Pelinkovac and Šljivovica were also served from this distillery, which some people preferred to drink as digestives in the end, because they work so well. Welcome snacks were more finger-friendly than a spoonful: trljanica (cheese and pepper salad) and dough with kajmak, prosciutto ham and cottage cheese, with some drops of olive oil from the Museum of Oil in Škrip, on the island of Brač, which was founded by Krunoslav Cukrov from Zagreb and his wife Katja.

Chef Ivan Tasić, who came to Zagreb from Leskovac, a gastronomic paradise of southern Serbia, prepared first the veal stew, while the wine accompaniment was Žilavka Keža 2018 from Herzegovina, more specifically from the Studenci vineyards in Ljubuški area. The combination proved to be the best in the informal voting that was conducted at the end of the evening by members of the media. And the winery and their wines, which are slowly making their way to the Croatian market, were presented by Dean Mlinarević.


Only some Zagreb restaurants can eat beef or ox tails, but only in Magazinska klet - Veal Tails in Vegetable Sauce, lightly cooked for ten hours, may be savoured. This very tasty and mildly spicy dish was handled well by Portugizac Mladina 2018, to whom the year of 'aging' gave fullness and elegance, and the wine was presented by the first man of that cellar from Plešivica, Marinko Baljak.

The spectacle at the tables continued with the Wedding Cabbage, a dish in which sour vegetables are paired with as many as four types of meat (chicken, pork, beef, lamb). And the real spectacle was also felt on the palate, with sips of Babić Templar Aurum 2016 wine, from the Livaić Winery in Pirovac. It was presented by Davor Livaić, who with his brother Tomislav restored the wine tradition and his daughter Anja Eloise Livaić, who has recently been more actively involved in the family business.

After that, the guests had to put away their main weapon - a spoon - and grab a fork and knife, because the first grilled specialty - Đevrek with kajmak and onions - came to the table. This large piece of minced meat is also called a burger with a hole, into which is added a ball of full fat cream on top. The Blatina Keža from 2016, with its intensity and drinkability, accompanied this powerful dish. The Magazine's heroes, though well fed up with many, didn't want to skip a real calorie bomb - a stuffed vješalica with baked beans. To help withstand the stroke, Postup Palihnić 2016 helped with its strong aroma and alcohol. With the full confidence of the winery owner Ante Palihnić, Vjekoslav Madunić from Croatian Radio spoke in a picturesque voice with his distinctive deep voice.

Conditionally, the break came with a dessert - a chocolate cake with hot biscuits and ice cream served with semi-sweet Muscat yellow 2017 from the Kezele Moslavina Winery, known for being very successful in rural tourism, where wine plays a big role. The dessert is made according to the recipe of Nada Dopuđa, manager of the restaurant Magazinska klet. To make all this easier to handle, the natural Jana water was served, which, with its freshness and minerality, successfully 'depreciated' both food and wine. Since there are also gourmets among the gathered food and wine lovers, who have no problems with insomnia, the organizers have not forgotten about them either. With a cup of aromatic Segafredo espresso, this latest edition of 'Wine by the Spoon' in 2019 is over. The organizers for the next year announce the expansion of the project to other Croatian cities and to some of the neighbouring countries.

Recordings: Goran Šerbula