Lepoglava is a beautiful town in Zagorje that rightfully enjoys an international reputation. First, thanks to its lace, coming to Lepoglava means stepping into the world of culture, natural heritage, and gastronomic delights. So we headed to this town on the slopes of Ivanščica and enjoyed the culinary offer of restaurants, wineries, and family farms.
Lepoglava was first mentioned in 1399, while a year later, Herman of Celje founded the monastery of the hermits of St. Paul. after that, the Paulines came to Lepoglava and stayed there until 1768. The Paulines founded the first public gymnasium in Croatia in Lepoglava in 1582, and the study of philosophy and theology began in 1656. Lepoglava received the status of the first Croatian university in 1674, and it is believed that around 75 doctoral dissertations were defended here. Since Lepoglava was a cradle of science, art, and culture when the Paulines arrived, their expulsion from Lepoglava in 1786 ended all cultural and scientific life.
The lace has been preserved. Lepoglava is known for its centuries-old tradition of making lace on bobbins, and this distinctive form of lacemaking has been preserved to this day mainly due to the work of Danica Brössler. Her talent has been followed by many hardworking lacemakers who have translated her ideas into a finished product, recognized as Lepoglava lace, which has been included in UNESCO's list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. You can read more about Lepoglava lace here.
Tradition is woven into every fiber of the city, and the guardians of this heritage are gathered in the Cultural and Artistic Society Lepoglava Pušlek. We are on the premises of the Lepoglava Pušlek Cultural and Artistic Society, an association dedicated to preserving the cultural heritage of the Lepoglava region. Their dedication to tradition is evident in preserving folk costumes and the room known as the “komorka.” This room was once the central part of the household, where everything was located in one large room, with the inevitable “špajza.” The president of the KUD, Štefica Bizek, kindly led us through this historic chamber while we were warmly welcomed by the members of the KUD, who lovingly preserve the traditions of Lepoglava. We were particularly interested in the gastronomic heritage of this region, about which the KUD has a lot to tell. Read more: KUD Lepoglava Pušlek - Guardians of the Mlinčani Kolač
The Pauline monastery was converted into a penitentiary in 1854, while the Pauline complex was separated from the prison in 2001 and handed over to the Varaždin Diocese for use. The monastery was returned to the Varaždin Diocese in 2001, but history remembers many famous prisoners. Among others, Josip Broz Tito and Franjo Tuđman served their sentences there, so the penitentiary jokes that they “produce presidents.” The penitentiary is also an essential feature of Lepoglava in terms of gastronomy. We discuss this with the assistant warden of the Penitentiary, Zlatko Manjerović, and the director of the Lepoglava Tourist Board, Ljubica Dubovečak.
A penal colony was established in Lepoglava in 1854. Before that, the Pope abolished the Pauline order and the monastery became empty. The first prison existed in the former monastery until 1914, when the "new building" or the famous Lepoglava star was completed. It was a purpose-built building for the prison of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, but outbuildings were also being built in parallel in the Čret area. The quality of construction was such that the roof in Čret was only recently replaced with beams engraved in 1912. Čret was focused on agriculture and viticulture from the very beginning. Cellars were built in 1908, and today's penal colony only continues this activity. The prison itself continued to engage in the same activities that Pauline did.
There are five working units in the prison. The metal plant is in the closed part of the prison, and metal racks, beds, and container beds are produced there. The wood processing plant used to create solid furniture, but over time, they switched to making their own custom-made honorary furniture. Apartments and cafes are decorated throughout Croatia. Chairs are also produced for subcontractors. The most profitable activity is catering through the Ivančica restaurant, as well as additional space that allows for ceremonies for up to 250 people.
Located in the heart of Lepoglava, the Ivančica restaurant has become an unmissable destination for all gourmets and lovers of local cuisine. Known for its specialties and warm hospitality, this restaurant is not just a place to eat – it is an experience that combines traditional flavors with a modern gastronomic approach, all under the auspices of one of the most unusual projects in Croatia. Read more: Ivančica Restaurant Conquers with Flavors
The fourth working unit is agriculture. Developed farming guarantees a self-sustaining diet for the livestock that the penitentiary fattens, and this is joined by vegetable growing, forestry, viticulture, and honey production. In the dislocated area of Bitoševje, 200-300 sheep graze peacefully, so every Thursday, suckling pig and lamb are roasted to order in the Ivančica restaurant. In 2023, the penitentiary produced three tons of honey, which has won many awards. Chestnut and acacia honey is made, as well as propolis. A new pig farm is also being built, and 200 calves are fattened annually for the agricultural company from Ivanec. At first glance, viticulture and prison may not go together, but the Lepoglava Penitentiary proves the opposite. Their winery, which proudly produces top-quality wines with a protected geographical origin, surprises wine critics and enthusiasts yearly, including the prestigious Decanter, where they have already won awards. Read more: Wine stories behind bars.
But besides the penitentiary, major wine awards are also won elsewhere. In the forest area of Lepoglava, on the very slopes of the magnificent Ivanščica, our youngest Nature Park, lies the Arbovin cellar, a genuine pearl of the wine scene. It is here that Miljenko Županić and his brother Tonko decided to step into the world of winemaking in 2020, and they have already won two prestigious Decanter awards, proving that the combination of tradition, knowledge, and passion is the right recipe for success. Read more: Arbovin - an award-winning combination of wine and forest
The rich natural environment of Lepoglava is a real asset. It is, therefore, not surprising that many families are engaged in fruit growing. The Lepoglava Agro-Tourism Cluster, founded in 2010, brings together family farms, associations, and businesses from the fields of agriculture and tourism, encouraging them to cooperate in order to strengthen their position in the market. Today, the cluster has 18 members, and the Lepoglava Penitentiary is an honorary member. Read more: Lepoglava Agro-Tourism Cluster – The Pride of Domestic Production
Brandies and liqueurs are particularly sought-after products from the fruit wealth. OPG Mađar represents a combination of tradition, history, and modern organic farming. This family, which bears one of the oldest Croatian surnames, is known for its top-quality blackberry and brandy products. Joking about their noble origin, they say that their ancestors fought against the Turks but did not receive land, only nobility and a coat of arms, which they now proudly wear on their products. Read more: OPG Mađar - enjoying the forest fruits of Lepoglava
The wealth of Lepoglava does not only lie above the ground. Lepoglava is located at the foot of a volcano! However, it is the fossil volcano Gaveznica, which was once known as Kameni vrh. There was a quarry there, and its remains form a crater. Here, for almost half a century, Lepoglava prisoners extracted the volcanic rock andesite, which is very strong and suitable for road surfaces. In the cracks of the andesite, a rock that was formed here about twenty million years ago, agate was found, a semi-precious stone that is one of the symbols of Lepoglava, which is otherwise known as a geologically extremely interesting area on a global scale. It was named after a river in Sicily, and is distinguished by its beautiful lines and geometric shapes. Read more: Agate - The Volcanic Treasure of Lepoglava
Leaving this city leaves beautiful memories in your heart. And you can also take home a souvenir that preserves that heartfelt feeling. Licitar is much more than a colorful cookie made from honey dough – it is a living monument to Croatian tradition. This true art is preserved and passed down from generation to generation in the circle of gingerbread families of northwestern Croatia. Its story, spiced with secret recipes, handwork and rich symbolism, has its roots in ancient times, and today it has become one of the most recognizable souvenirs of this region. A visit to Valentina Gladović Nedić, the keeper of this heritage in Klenovnik, a village not far from Lepoglava, provides a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the world of licitar. Read more: Licitarstvo Slavica - Sweet Heart of Zagorje
We are especially grateful to the Director of the Tourist Board, Ljubica Dubovčak, and the long-time Mayor of Lepoglava Marijan Škvarić for their warm welcome. Their commitment to the city is evident in the wealth of cultural, artistic, sporting, and gastronomic events that invite you to Lepoglava!
Turistička zajednica Grada Lepoglave
Hrvatskih pavlina 7, 42250 Lepoglava
tel:+38542494317
This reportage was made possible with the help of the Tourist Board of the City of Lepoglava.
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