Konoba More and the Kostrena Squids of Captain Ante
- Vedran Obućina
- Oct 6
- 4 min read
The Sea has its colours, its sounds, its moods. In Kostrena, that quiet coastal town near Rijeka, it also has its own tavern — More (“The Sea”). Nestled right on the shoreline, among whispering pine trees and stones that remember the footsteps of fishermen, this tavern breathes, tells stories, and remembers. Here, food is savoured slowly, with a view that stretches to the horizon. And when the bura wind rises and the sea turns restless, inside you still hear only one thing — the gentle hum of people and the rhythm of the kitchen, where the best of Kostrena comes to life: the sea on a plate.
Marijana and Damir Cupać opened More out of love — not the romantic kind, but the deep, inherited love for the sea and the people who lived by it. “It’s not just about food,” says Marijana as she pours olive oil into a squid stew. “Every bite must have meaning; it must tell a story.” Both grew up listening to tales of sailors who brought home not only fish but the whole world. Today, their tavern is a world in miniature — a meeting place of old Kostrena cooking and modern ideas, where every portion has a name and every story its own scent. The stone walls, adorned with paintings and photos, quietly preserve that tradition.
At the heart of this story stands a name spoken with reverence in Kostrena — Captain Ante Vičević. A sailor, a Kostrena man, and a hero without fanfare. In 1980, his ship Uljanik, owned by Jugolinija, found itself in the midst of the Iran–Iraq War. When bombs struck the tanker, Ante didn’t think of himself. He saved the entire crew, swimming for nights through the dark sea beneath the stars and smoke. In Kostrena they say, “The sea may take from you, but it also teaches you.” Captain Ante became a symbol of that lesson — of courage, endurance, and faith. And so, in More, there is now a dish that bears his name: Captain Ante’s Kostrena Squid. Marijana doesn’t call it a speciality, but a memorial. “When we cook it, it’s not just a recipe — it’s remembrance.”
Chef Kristijan Kozmić, the master of the kitchen, revived the old Kostrena recipe for squid na toć — slow-cooked in a copper pot over a gentle flame, with tomatoes, olives, capers, and red wine melding together. The sauce thickens, the squid softens, and the air fills with the fragrance of the sea and olive groves. It is served with thyme-infused polenta, which adds a warm, earthy tone to the dish. On the Kvarner coast, squid have always held an almost ritual significance — not a luxury, but a sign that the sea still gives.
For centuries, squid have been the backbone of life on Kvarner. In Kostrena, where almost every family had a sailor or fisherman, squid were both sustenance and seasonal celebration. They were caught in late autumn, when the sea calmed and the shoals came close to shore. Old carbide lamps lit the water as men fished from boats using peškafondo, while women on the shore cleaned and prepared the catch. At that time of year, all of Kostrena smelled of squid — grilled, stewed, or stuffed with breadcrumbs and garlic. That scent was a sign that winter was coming, but also that community endured.
Konoba More is housed in a building steeped in history — once home to the Kostrena Diving Club, founded in 1946. Locals say that Tito himself once stopped by, and it was in this very building that the first underwater spear gun on the Adriatic was made. Today, the walls are lined with photographs of divers and ships, each telling of a time when the sea was a way of life rather than a tourist attraction. “Divers still gather here,” says Damir. “They come from Germany, Austria, Italy… many return every year. Some have become close friends. Diving and cooking have a lot in common — both require calm, discipline, and respect for depth.”
When divers descend into the sea, the world falls silent. “They say it’s like a prayer,” Marijana explains. “Down there, you hear only your own breathing.” And in the kitchen, she adds, it’s the same — everything must stay in rhythm. When cooking squid stew, nothing can be rushed. “If you hurry, it’s ruined. But if you’re patient, the sea gives it all back.” It’s no surprise that Kostrena’s squid has become a hit for Kvarner – European Region of Gastronomy 2026.
In More, there are no fast meals or formulas. Every dish tells a story — squid from Kvarner, wine from Istria, olive oil from Dalmatia. The menu includes cuttlefish stew, mussels buzara-style, and fresh fish from the grill. But Captain Ante’s squid remain the signature dish. “They’re our mark,” says Damir. “Everything rests on them — the story of Kostrena, and the idea that the sea is not a commodity but something sacred.”
We also tried the Kostrena Squid, the house classic. “Inside we put pancetta, a little fresh tomato — depending on the season we use fresh or sun-dried — and mozzarella cheese, all neatly sealed inside the squid and grilled,” explains Chef Kristijan. The squid are served on a bed of rocket with Swiss chard and potatoes — simple, but bursting with the scent and taste of the sea. The saltiness of the pancetta meets the sweetness of the squid, while the mozzarella melts to bind everything together in a soft, velvety harmony.
With squid, the perfect pairing is a glass of Istrian Malvazija Cosetto — light yet full of character, it follows every note of the sauce and enhances the sea’s saltiness. The wine list also includes Plavac, Žlahtina, and, to finish, homemade liqueurs made from carob and immortelle. “We work with winemakers who live what we cook,” says Marijana. “People who know the land and respect nature.”
The kitchen at More runs like a ship’s crew — everyone knows their role. Chef Kristijan leads the kitchen, Gordana takes care of the bar, and Damir and Marijana Cupać are the captains who ensure everything is in place. In the diving section, Bojan and Hrvoje often bring in the catch — squid, cuttlefish, scorpionfish — which then inspires a spontaneous new dish. In Kostrena, people say: the sea takes, but it also gives. And in More, every bite is a reminder of that truth.
Konoba More
Rožići 1, Kostrena
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