Autumn in Zagorje

Autumn in Zagorje – is there anything better for a wonderful weekend escape or a perfect family day trip? If you visit the Biser Zagorja (Pearl of Zagorje) destination and focus on its three uniquely radiant “pearls”, the answer will be a resounding no. This is especially true if you live in Zagreb County, which meets Krapina-Zagorje County precisely in this area. The Biser Zagorja destination is located in the western part of the Croatian Zagorje region and encompasses Veliko Trgovišće, Tuhelj and Klanjec – three municipalities united by enchanting nature, rich culture and a lifestyle tailored to every traveller. From Zagreb, you can reach Biser Zagorja easily and quickly by car: from the southern parts of the city to the first municipality, Veliko Trgovišće, it takes only about 20 minutes along the bypass around Zagreb’s ring. Once you enter this municipality, the road leads you along winding lanes through peaceful villages, gentle hills and the characteristic landscapes of Zagorje.

Travelling from Zagreb towards this destination, you first come across the Ribič restaurant, which firmly marks the border between Zagreb County and Krapina-Zagorje County. With a tradition spanning nearly 60 years, Ribič is a true landmark of local gastronomy, now run by the third generation of the family. In the mornings, you can enjoy a traditional Zagorje breakfast made with ingredients from local farms, and if you fancy something heartier, be sure to try the Zagreb-style schnitzel – juicy fillets prepared according to a secret family recipe. After this tasty stop, just a few minutes’ drive takes you into Veliko Trgovišće.

At first glance, the appearance of the municipality is captivating – children playing in the streets, small modern apartment buildings home to young urban families, and a railway station that is the main reason this Zagorje municipality continues to grow. The fast rail link between Zagreb and Zagorje has encouraged people to move into the region, as well as drawing nature-lovers who wish to live in a smaller, quieter place.

What Veliko Trgovišće looked like when Croatia’s first president grew up there can be discovered in part at the Dr. Franjo Tuđman Memorial House located at the entrance to the village. The birthplace (open daily from 12–4 p.m., except Mondays) is now an engaging museum offering a journey through time and an intimate insight into the modest childhood of a man who would later shape the nation’s history. Another highlight in this destination is the Franjo Tuđman Memorial School (in the centre, near the parish church), which houses a lovely gallery and a special attraction on the first floor – a classroom faithfully recreated to show what schools looked like in the first half of the 20th century. Wooden desks, a globe, and an old multiplication chart evoke the scent of the past, inviting every visitor to step back into the days when knowledge laid the foundations of modern society.

A new attraction in the destination, and in the municipality itself, is Poglavica Farm Tourism: a pair of passionate young hosts, Snježana and Marko Preberina, transformed their grandmother’s house into a haven of authentic Zagorje charm. Everything here carries the fragrance of home cooking: in winter you can enjoy pork hock with sauerkraut, mashed potatoes and aromatic roasts, along with vegetables freshly picked from their land. This year, the farm will host the St Martin’s Day festivities as well as a nature-themed Advent celebration.

While exploring Veliko Trgovišće, you will surely notice the unusual benches scattered around the area. Sit down, press a button, and listen to the story each bench has to tell. These “talking benches” are an excellent project by the local tourist board, allowing you to hear the most interesting facts about nearby attractions. They will inspire you to continue your exploration in the second “pearl” of Zagorje.

About ten kilometres from Veliko Trgovišće lies Tuhelj, a municipality globally known for its wellness experiences, water attractions, and rich cultural and traditional heritage. Terme Tuhelj, once a famous health resort, today shines as a modern, sustainable thermal oasis designed for families and individuals alike – an ideal place to recharge, enjoy wellness rituals, or round off the Zagorje experience with wine and gastronomy at Mihanović Manor, birthplace of Antun Mihanović, the author of the Croatian national anthem.

Not far from Tuheljske Toplice, be sure to visit the Park of Famous People of Zagorje – an innovative educational park that brings to life the stories of notable men and women through 12 interpretive panels and engaging visual displays. There is also a charming park of creatively designed labyrinths, and a few kilometres further, near the centre of Tuhelj, you will find the Traditional Toys Park, where you can sit and learn how wooden toys were once handcrafted.

The third “pearl”, Klanjec, offers a true treasure trove of culture. Here stands the impressive Franciscan monastery with the Church of the Annunciation, whose crypts once held the sarcophagi of the powerful Erdödy family, who built the monastery in the 17th century. Two sarcophagi have been removed from the crypts, fully restored, and are now displayed in a side chapel; they can be viewed by arrangement with the Klanjec Cultural Centre. Klanjec is also home to the Antun Augustinčić Gallery, dedicated to Croatia’s most renowned sculptor, whose masterpiece Peace adorns the United Nations courtyard in New York.

A visit to the Gallery and the still-active artist’s studio will delight art lovers, who will no doubt be inspired by the creative spirit and the urban charm of the entire town. While in Klanjec, do not miss the culinary experience of the iconic Stara Vodenica restaurant, long known for its Zagorje duck with mlinci and pork loin filled with cheese and bacon. If you plan to stay overnight and enjoy a truly local experience, Stara Vodenica is an excellent choice.

Throughout the Biser Zagorja region, you will find the Eyes of Zagorje viewpoints (seven in total), each offering a unique perspective on new colours and stories. Gazing out over the hills, vineyards, villages and even neighbouring counties is a true joy for anyone who loves nature. One of the most special viewpoints is located in Mrzlo Polje near Villa Colina, where – with prior reservation – you can enjoy an outstanding wine-and-dine experience. Here you can savour homemade blood sausages, pork hock, roasted meats, and in the cellar taste wine blends or aged Graševina.

Wine lovers can also enjoy tastings at the Sever family winery in Klanjec, on the slopes of Cesarska Gora. Although the winery offers nine different labels, its star is Sokol – an indigenous local variety. Once cultivated solely in the Franciscan vineyards for sacramental wine, it has been preserved and revived in the Sever family vineyards. Sokol is a rare treasure of Croatian winemaking, with only around 500 litres produced annually. Three towns, three pearls, a thousand stories and countless experiences. From Zagreb, in barely half an hour, you enter a completely different world – a destination filled with moments you will talk about long after your trip ends. Surrounded by greenery, rolling hills, the aromas of traditional cuisine and the history shaped by remarkable people, you will also become part of the new stories being written here. One of them will be yours!

foto: Nikola Zoko