Bokoon – Small Istrian Oasis of Big Flavours
- Fran Ratković
- Nov 2
- 4 min read
On the western coast of Istria, between Vrsar and Poreč, lies Funtana – a small village of great charm and even greater gastronomic potential. Although modest in size, Funtana has long established itself as a remarkably appealing culinary destination, a place where the Mediterranean spirit meets the authentic flavours of Istria.
Barbara Belac from the Funtana Tourist Board highlights how this little fishing village proudly preserves its rich gastronomic tradition through a series of events such as the Fešta od Grmalia and Funtanjanski gušti. The Fešta od Grmalia, held in the second half of September, celebrates the catching of small Adriatic crabs – grmalije – which become the stars of this local fishing festival. Alongside them, many other fish specialities are served, accompanied by music, socialising, and a true Istrian atmosphere.
The real gastronomic pride of Funtana, however, is Funtanjanski gušti, an event held twice a year, in May and September, when local restaurants join forces with the Tourist Board to present their finest specialities. During those days, Funtana turns into a culinary stage – restaurants let their creativity run free, offering dishes not usually found on their regular menus. The goal is clear: to enliven the pre- and post-season and to show that Funtana offers far more than sea and sun – it offers an experience.
During the event, we visited the restaurant Bokoon, part of Valamar Camping Istra. Hermina Maras Benassi from Valamar emphasised that they gladly accepted the invitation to take part in Funtanjanski gušti. “It is always a pleasure to cooperate with the local community, as that connection gives warmth to the destination. We want both guests and locals to feel part of the same story,” she said.
At Bokoon, the focus is naturally on Istrian cuisine, although other traditional Croatian dishes also feature on the menu. Valamar places great importance on cooperation with local producers and, during the summer, organises Istrian Evenings, when local winemakers and producers – often lesser-known but of outstanding quality – are presented. Guests can also enjoy a musical and stage programme: members of the Loza association perform Istrian songs and dances, while Duo Magnolia, dressed in traditional costume, play the sopile, mih, and duplice – instruments whose sounds evoke the spirit of old Istria.
Restaurant manager Edi Brčić introduced two menus: one based on fish, the other on meat, both carefully designed to showcase the breadth of Istrian cuisine and the perfect harmony between local ingredients and wines. The warm starter of the fish menu was a fritaja (omelette) with Adriatic cuttlefish – an unusual combination at first glance but perfectly balanced in flavour. The sweetness of the cuttlefish and the neutrality of the eggs blend into an aromatic whole, rounded off by a glass of Damjanić Malvazija, a dry, fresh wine with fruity notes.
In the meat menu, the warm starter was Istrian jota – a thick cabbage stew with a homely taste, simmered for four to five hours. It paired beautifully with Damjanić Cuvée, a blend of Merlot, Bourgogne, and Teran, full-bodied yet refreshingly fruity. Winemaker Ivan Damjanić from nearby Fuškulin is already well known among lovers of Istrian wines, and collaborations like this with local producers create a sense of authenticity that guests both recognise and appreciate. Alongside Damjanić wines, labels from winemakers Poleis and Cossetto are also offered, enriching the wine list even further.
The main course of the fish menu featured squid stuffed with their own tentacles, Veli Jože hard cheese from the Latus dairy near Žminj, and Franjul prosciutto from Sveti Petar u Šumi. The dish immediately captivates with its harmony of colours – the golden-brown squid glisten gently with olive oil, accompanied by potatoes cooked in fish stock, infused with the aroma of the sea and a lightly thickened broth that unites all components in perfect balance. This dish reflects the simplicity and richness of the sea, but also tells a story of Istria – of fishermen, shepherds, and master curers of prosciutto coming together to create something truly authentic.
In the meat menu, the main course was lamb in teća with roasted potatoes – a dish that embodies the heart of Istrian cuisine and the scent of a home hearth. The lamb, sourced from Boris Orlić’s farm in Klarići, is slowly cooked in olive oil with onions that melt into a sweet golden base, while the potatoes from the Bratović family farm in Kaštelir are lightly roasted until they form a crisp crust and full aroma. A touch of red pepper and fresh rosemary adds subtle warmth and Mediterranean freshness. The result is a mouthful that unites tenderness and richness, simplicity and depth of flavour – a dish that breathes Istrian tradition, patience, and love of the land.
For dessert, a cake shaped like scallop shells (kapešanti) was served – a visually striking creation that combines the symbolism of travel with culinary imagination. The delicate, golden pastry conceals a filling of vanilla custard, airy whipped cream, and forest fruit coulis, which adds a sweet-sour freshness and the scent of pine forest after rain. Each bite offers a perfect balance of softness and aroma, lightness and fullness. The dessert is served with a glass of white Muscat, a light, aromatic wine whose floral tones complete the experience and leave a fine, almost honeyed finish on the palate. This sweet epilogue is more than the end of a meal – it is a gentle reminder that in Funtana, even the simplest ingredients become a story of beauty, balance, and the joy of the moment.
Funtana, therefore, is much more than a small spot between Poreč and Vrsar. It is proof that the best things in Istria happen when the local community breathes as one – when chefs, winemakers, producers, cultural associations, and tourism workers join forces to create an experience that lasts long after the plate is empty. In a world where gastronomy often strives for spectacle, Funtana offers something different: the honesty of flavour, the warmth of people, and a sense of belonging. This is the true Istria – the scent of the sea, the sound of sopile, and a sip of Malvazija at the moment you realise that simplicity can be the greatest luxury of all.
Ribarska, Funtana
+385 52 445 527
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