Bruno Ferenac – Both Hands in the Air!

The title may seem a little unclear at first. It comes from the end of the workshop “Vrijeme je ZA…” held at HKD Napredak under the sommelier guidance of Darko Lugarić. He asked those present to raise one hand for Malvasia or for the red varieties being presented, in order to see which colour or variety had more supporters. At one moment, we all had both hands in the air—meaning that Bruno Ferenac’s wines are inseparable in terms of quality; in other words, they are all excellent.

The winery from Filipi, in the hinterland of Vižinada, has been cultivating vines for at least the past four generations, practically since the beginning of the 20th century. In that area, Bruno’s grandfather Grgo was well known, selling his wines in a “spacio”, a hospitality venue comparable to today’s wine bar. Bruno, who once worked in hospitality as a waiter, decided to embark on his own wine journey 19 years ago, gradually learning from his father Josip, other local winemakers, and various wine courses organised over time.

That he absorbed this knowledge well and successfully applied it in his own winery became evident today. In 2006, he bottled his first wines, and in the years that followed he achieved remarkable success—becoming the only winemaker from the county to win gold medals at Vinistra five years in a row. His 2020 Malvasia won gold the following year with 95 points. This was followed by further wins in 2022, 2023, 2024, and 2025, with the most recent also earning gold at the Decanter awards. These achievements, however, still do not fully capture the depth and value of the wines we had the opportunity to taste.

He produces a classic varietal Malvasia, an elegant terroir-driven Teran, an excellent cuvée, and a seductive Muscat Yellow. Ferenac does not work with many varieties, but what he produces is done exceptionally well. Across 4.5 hectares, he has gradually renewed and expanded his vineyards since 1983, now cultivating around 16,000 vines (11,000 Malvasia, 2,000 Teran, 1,500 Merlot, 800 Cabernet Sauvignon, and around 700 Muscat Yellow). The red varieties grow at approximately 300 metres above sea level in the area above Mekiši, while most of the Malvasia is grown in Vala. All grapes are harvested by hand. For his cuvée, he harvests the red varieties in sequence: Merlot first, then Teran, and finally Cabernet Sauvignon. The vines grow on red soil rich in minerals, where bauxite was once extracted.

We had the opportunity to taste:

1. Malvasia 2025

2. Malvasia 2024

3. Merlot 2024

4. Merlot 2021

5. Teran 2024

6. Teran 2022

7. Red Cuvée 2023

8. Muscat Yellow

I will focus on four of these eight wines: Malvasia 2025 (13% alcohol) delighted all present wine lovers. It has a pleasant varietal aroma—acacia blossom, fresh pear, lime. Already appealing on the nose, it has a medium body, a yellow-green hue, fresh, refined, elegant, and highly drinkable. Besides being suitable as an aperitif, it pairs beautifully with white fish, lighter risottos (such as pumpkin with cheese), and vegetable salads dressed with olive oil. A wine just beginning its life in the bottle, it should remain in excellent condition at least until the end of the year.

Merlot 2024 (13.5% alcohol) was drawn from a wooden barrel into a bottle for this presentation. It will continue ageing in wood and later in bottle once the winemaker decides to release it. Ruby red in colour, clear, with an intense varietal aroma and flavours of fresh forest fruits. There is a hint of oak, but the tannins are not harsh—lively, youthful, and fresh. Recommended pairings include pork neck, light stews, pasta, and Bolognese. Ferenac emphasises that red wines often gain more complexity through bottle ageing than whites, and he expects the same from this relatively young Merlot.

Teran 2024 (13% alcohol) has a ruby red colour with violet reflections. It is full-bodied with high acidity, a defining characteristic of the variety. Despite this, it is not heavy—the alcohol is moderate, the tannins lively but not rough. Aromas of raspberry and blueberry (with a hint of sour cherry) stand out. The oak is well integrated, using Slavonian and French barrels of 300 litres with a lighter toast. The wine is dry, with 3 g/L residual sugar, elegant in structure, and pairs well with richer foods such as prosciutto with good fat content, lamb chops, wild hare, or grilled meats like pork neck, burgers, and ćevapi.

Red Cuvée 2023 (40% Teran, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 13% alcohol) is a successful blend of classic Bordeaux varieties with Teran. Lugarić jokingly suggested the name “Super Istrian”, while one might call it an Istrian Bordeaux-style blend. Each wine was fermented separately in stainless steel before being aged together in barrique barrels for one year. The result is a clear wine, ruby to garnet in colour with violet hints. It shows fruit from all three varieties, sweet spices, and notes of oak—smoke, chocolate, cocoa. The tannins are present but rounded and unobtrusive. Aged in 500-litre barrels, it offers excellent value for money at the winery.

Bruno Ferenac has proven himself to be a modest yet highly successful winemaker, with a clear direction he has no intention of changing. There is no need to, as these wines—and the remaining four—demonstrate a true wine expert with a strong personal compass. He is supported by his wife Monika, who attended the presentation, and his daughter Katja, who is expected to follow in his footsteps. There is little doubt that this fine wine story from Ferenac, near Vižinada, will continue successfully into the future.

Photos: Marko Čolić