Christmas in Srijem 2025: Nijemci and Vinkovci offer a holiday magic

If you would like to experience Advent in a slightly different way—without crowds, queues for fritters, or jostling for the perfect photo—set off for Srijem. The easternmost region of Croatia, just over two hours’ drive from Zagreb, lives the festive season in its own distinctive way. Here, tradition and modern life intertwine; everything smells of grandmother’s cakes, Christmas songs fill the air, and both villages and towns breathe in the rhythm of the holidays. Christmas in Srijem offers an authentic, warm way to welcome the festive season and bid farewell to the old year—just a little differently.

If you set out to experience Christmas in Srijem, let your first stop be the municipality of Nijemci. Here, the Tourist Board of the Municipality of Nijemci launches “Christmas in Nijemci” with the programme “Grandmother’s Recipe, Granddaughter’s Hands”, showcasing how traditional Christmas cakes are baked using old family recipes passed down through generations. The workshop has already taken place, and Nijemci was filled with the aroma of cakes baked by as many as 30 local women. For those who are yet to start their own festive baking, a helpful tip: step into the Tourist Board office, where a recipe booklet titled “Grandmother’s Recipe, Granddaughter’s Hands” awaits, featuring a carefully selected collection of classic holiday cakes from this region.

If you are looking for cakes made from Srijem eggs, flour, and walnuts, Marina’s Sweets is the place to go—where delicious homemade cakes, baked according to grandmother’s recipes, are both made and sold. More about the customs and particularities of this area can be discovered on the guided tour “Along the Paths of Srijem”, led by a local Srijem woman. The tour begins with the Roman and medieval history of the region, recounts life along the River Bosut, and introduces visitors to old crafts and traditional rural architecture.

As you stroll through the centre of Nijemci, be sure to stop by the Luka Natali Local Heritage Museum, where, in the grandmother’s room, you may be welcomed by the MPS Spačva choir from Donje Novo Selo, singing traditional Christmas carols during the festive season.

The municipality of Nijemci includes eight settlements, and in one of them—Lipovac—the custom of the Betlemaši has been revived. After decades of being forgotten, this tradition has been brought back into focus by members of the Šokadija Cultural and Artistic Society (founded in 1968, with 70 members across adult and children’s groups, under the attentive guidance of Jakov Matić). The custom depicts Christmas traditions in Srijem, centred on three Betlemaši—young men in traditional dress who carry a nativity scene, sing old songs, and announce the birth of Christ.

In the heart of Slavonia, where the River Bosut either lies still or gently flows one way or the other beneath a veil of mist, Vinkovci has dressed itself in winter attire. The streets are adorned with elegant decorations, the air is scented with langoš, cinnamon, and mulled wine, and church bells mingle with children’s laughter. The main square shines with simple wooden nativity scenes facing the parish church of Saints Eusebius and Polion; the city’s main Christmas tree is decorated with traditional ornaments, while the Advent wreath is adorned with lace. If you are in search of good food—a blend of homemade and traditional—Vinkovci has plenty to offer.

During Advent, walk through the lace-covered passageway and head towards the iconic Marabu Restaurant, where the winter menu takes centre stage, featuring fine burgers, warming risottos, and a delicious pork crackling spread served on homemade bread.

Vinkovci boasts an ice rink more spacious than many in similar-sized towns, while festive stalls open their windows to offer local wine and gastronomic delicacies. When it comes to Christmas in Vinkovci, it is as if children tell the main story. At the Agricultural and Forestry School Vinkovci – the Regional Centre of Excellence – students create Advent wreaths through school programmes, blending tradition with modern design; bakers bake cakes daily, and fruit growers turn their harvest into healthy winter juices. All of these products can be purchased at the school and taken home as the perfect souvenir.

As for secondary school students in Vinkovci, those attending the Grammar School are currently preparing for the Christmas concert, putting the final flourish on Vinkovci’s Advent celebrations. On the shortest day of the year, 21 December—when winter officially begins—the Josip Runjanin Music School will host the traditional concert from the windows and in front of the Grammar School, transforming Vinkovci into an irresistible festive scene reminiscent of the most beautiful Christmas films.

As in all larger towns, Christmas and winter in Vinkovci conceal a wealth of interesting attractions and events that simply invite you to enjoy the heart of Srijem. To make sure you don’t miss a thing, follow all the latest updates on the official website of the Vinkovci Tourist Board.

Photo: Nikola Zoko