Kleščec and Nero di Troia – Flagship Wines of Bužić and Dieci Terre Wineries

At this Tuesday’s promotional wine workshop “Vrijeme je ZA…”, the young winemaker Denis Bužić from Križevci was the featured guest, while in the second part four wines from Puglia were presented by winery owner Francesco Ruscino.

I will proceed in the order of tasting, as we first sampled four wines from the Prigorje area around Križevci. Denis Bužić graduated from the Faculty of Agriculture in Zagreb in 2011, becoming an agricultural engineer specialising in what he jokingly calls the “three Vs”: fruit growing, viticulture, and winemaking. In his wine-growing region – let us recall the famous Križevački štatuti – his grandfather Stjepan and grandmother Ljubica planted the first 600 vines in 1974 in the Buče area.

In 2013, after Denis’s graduation, they planted one hectare of vineyard with varieties including Graševina, Yellow Muscat, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Noir, while about another hectare consisted of small plots from co-operating growers. Today, the family owns around four hectares and continues planting, with approximately 20,000 vines: predominantly Graševina (10,000), along with Riesling and Muscat (2,000 each), Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer (1,500 each), and about 1,000 vines of Kleščec, Pinot Noir, and various PIWI varieties (Solaris, Muscat Pölöskei, Palatin, and Nero). The Bužić family is deeply rooted in agronomy – Denis’s mother Dragica, father Gordan, and brother Marko all graduated from the agricultural college in Križevci, ensuring a strong base of expertise.

Bužić worked as an oenologist in Erdut and Križevci about a decade ago, and today, as the owner of Enovib Ltd., he consults for numerous winemakers across all Croatian wine regions, as well as in Slovenia and Hungary. He is also involved in the wholesale of grapes, must, and wine. Nevertheless, it is clear that his true calling lies in leading the winemakers of his region and elevating the indigenous Kleščec variety to the level achieved by Moslavina winemakers with their Škrlet. Supporting him in this endeavour are his wife Mirela and their children Bruno, Iva, and Vida.

In a relatively short time, the winery has received several accolades, including a gold medal in Pécs in 2013 for the 2012 Graševina, the champion title in Križevci in 2022 for Pinot Noir 2020 (“Mayor’s Wine”), and gold at the Alpe Adria wine exhibition in 2019 for macerated Pinot Gris. In addition to cellar-door sales, Bužić wines are present in local restaurants and the KTC retail chain.

At the workshop, we tasted the following wines:

Kleščec 2024 – 12% alcohol

Sauvignon Blanc 2025 – 11%

Riesling 2024 – 13%

Pinot Noir Barrique 2024 – 14.4%

Fiano Bianco 2024 – 12.5%

Later, the tasting also included:

6. Nero di Troia Rosato 2024 – 12.5%

7. Nero di Troia 2019 – 14%

8. Aglianico 2021 – 14.5%

The Kleščec 2024 (12% alcohol, 6.2 g/L acidity, pH 3.16) opened the tasting and immediately made a strong impression. Crystal clear, straw-yellow with greenish reflections, it is dense with fine fruity aromas of apricot and yellow fruit. On the palate, apricot returns in the aftertaste, with a medium body and well-balanced acidity. The wine is harmonious, fruit-forward, and elegant. Malolactic fermentation was completed while on the lees. This variety performs well in the vineyard and shows resistance to disease. Suggested pairings include gratinated or grilled scallops, baked salmon with spinach and almonds, prawn salad, and seafood dishes. Kleščec is a promising variety that could become a defining wine of the Križevci subregion. Historical records mention it as early as the third quarter of the 19th century, when Ivan Lepušić planted it in Apatovac.

As Bužić notes: “When we began clonal selection from Germany, there were far more sceptics.” Today’s results, however, vindicate those who believed in the variety.

Another highlight was the Pinot Noir Barrique 2024 (14.4% alcohol, 5.8 g/L acidity, pH 3.58). At under two years of age, it has yet to reach its peak. The wine shows a vibrant colour, density, and refined aromas of red fruit (raspberry, cherry), along with hints of sweet spices such as liquorice. On the palate, it is lively, youthful, yet already well-structured, firm, and elegant, with a subtle touch of oak that will integrate further with ageing.

Recommended pairings include lamb chops in demi-glace, goose or duck with mlinci, and steaks. The wine is bottled in a classic Bordeaux bottle, though it was suggested that the winery might adopt a Riesling-style bottle for part of its range and consider an optimal format for Kleščec.

In the second part of the workshop, Francesco Ruscino, owner of the Dieci Terre winery from San Marzano in Puglia – the “heel of the Italian boot” – presented his wines. The family’s winemaking tradition dates back to the end of the Second World War, while serious commercial production began about twenty years ago under his father Vincenzo. Francesco joined the business a decade ago after completing studies in graphic design and advanced sommelier training. He now oversees marketing and international sales.

Their wines are exported across Europe, including the United Kingdom, Poland, Finland, Albania, and Greece, as well as to Asian markets. Their presentation at HKD Napredak reflects their ambition to enter the Croatian market. The winery cultivates around 50 hectares of its own vineyards, with an additional 50 hectares in partnership, and produces approximately 800,000 bottles annually. Among their varieties are Primitivo, Nero di Troia, Brunello di Montalcino, Amarone, Barolo, Primitivo di Manduria, Negroamaro, Aglianico, Fiano, Chardonnay, Nero di Troia Rosé, and Primitivo Rosé.

The Fiano Bianco 2024 (12.5% alcohol) is golden yellow with greenish reflections, suggesting freshness. On the nose, it reveals floral aromas (primrose, acacia) and yellow fruit, while on the palate it offers notes of honey, peach, and pear. It is enjoyable on its own but pairs beautifully with white fish, seafood, and light risottos.

The Aglianico 2021 (14.5% alcohol) is deep garnet red, dense, with slow-forming “legs” in the glass. It offers intense aromas of fruit (cherry, violet, green pepper) and sweet spices (chocolate, liquorice, clove). This is a structured wine with firm tannins, yet balanced and very drinkable despite its higher alcohol content. Often referred to as the “Barolo of southern Italy”, it is typically long-lived. Originating from Campania, it is generally more robust there than in Puglia, where it is ready for the market earlier. It pairs well with rich dishes such as Florentine steak, fatty tuna, complex Istrian sausages, and other red meats in dark sauces. Its price at the winery is €7.80, which would rise to around €13.50 on the Croatian market after duties. Ruscino also brought an excellent mozzarella from a neighbouring producer with whom he collaborates.

In conclusion, Bužić Winery is clearly positioned to expand onto the wider Croatian market. It is on the right path, with new contacts and broader distribution expected soon. Particularly noteworthy is Kleščec as an authentic wine of the Prigorje–Bilogora region.

Dieci Terre, on the other hand, is a large-scale producer with an impressive portfolio. Beyond the varieties mentioned, they offer dozens of labels in collaboration with partners. Initial contacts have already been established, and their wines are expected to appear on the Croatian market in the near future.