Konoba Pakoštanac: flavours of old Dalmatia

In the very heart of Pakoštane is the Pakoštanac Tavern - a place that has been preserving the tradition of Dalmatian cuisine, a homely atmosphere, and authentic Adriatic flavors for more than half a century, which keeps the same guests coming back for years. Some of them still remember how it all began... The year was 1971, when there was almost no tourism in Pakoštane, and restaurants were a real rarity. The doors of the first tavern were opened by Ljubomir Bungur, a native of Pakoštane, who, after working in Switzerland and Germany (as a chef at the Mediteraneo Club), decided to bring his culinary knowledge to his hometown.

It was a cozy space, with a simple name, with only seven tables that filled up quickly. The kitchen prepared shellfish, fresh fish, squid, octopus, and cuttlefish, and in addition to fish specialties, steaks and ramsteki were also offered. What distinguished Konoba Pakoštanac from other restaurants that opened later was the quality of the ingredients and the homemade preparation of each dish.

This is exactly what has remained the same today, 55 years later: the fish comes from local fishermen in Pakoštane and Vrgada, the vegetables are sourced from local OPGs, and the family also uses its own figs and grapes. Although it preserves tradition, Konoba Pakoštanac successfully follows modern gastronomic trends. Today, on the menu, in addition to classic wild fish and cephalopods, you can find creative dishes that combine traditional ingredients and modern preparation techniques.

-Tuna and blacksmith tartare, carpaccio, and homemade tuna pâté are particularly popular. One of the house specialties is fig and prosciutto pâté with dried figs cooked in red wine - tells us the owner of the tavern, Martina Bungur, she has been involved in the business since childhood, and after her father's death, she ran this restaurant together with her brother Ante, a trained chef, and her mother Vinka. While Ante and mother Vinka come up with new recipes, Martina runs the restaurant's management, purchasing, and logistics. Martina proudly points out that the tradition will continue, as younger generations are already showing interest in carrying on the business.

One of the reasons why guests have been coming to Konoba Pakoštanac for years is the fact that the food here is still prepared in the traditional way. Homemade stews are cooked for hours, and some sauces are created through a process that takes up to two days. The meat demi-glace is cooked for seven to eight hours, the vegetables are specially roasted in the oven, and every detail of the preparation is carefully controlled.

In an era when many restaurants use ready-made bases and industrial products, this approach is becoming a real rarity. In addition to the food, the restaurant's ambiance itself leaves a special impression. The interior is dominated by stone, wood, vines and olive trees that are more than 70 years old, creating an authentic Dalmatian atmosphere. The outdoor terrace can accommodate around 160 guests, while the interior has a capacity for more than 50 people. Due to its large space and pleasant atmosphere, the tavern is also popular for organizing birthdays, communions, confirmations and other family celebrations. A special emotion is still associated with the evenings when, after the guests have left, we would sit down at the table and play briškula, trešeta...

- As many as 70 percent of the guests are regular visitors who return to Konoba Pakoštanac year after year. The most frequent visitors are Germans, Austrians, Slovaks, Czechs and French, but the restaurant is also loved by local guests from Zadar, Šibenik, Pirovac and Split. The reason for their loyalty is not just the food but the feeling of a homely atmosphere, warmth, and tradition that are hard to find today, says Martina, revealing that even after more than 50 years of work, the family has no plans to stop.

The plan is to expand the restaurant and build an open kitchen with a grill so that guests can watch the food being prepared live, with the goal remaining the same - to preserve the quality, local cuisine, and family atmosphere that has made Konoba Pakoštanac one of the symbols of gastronomy in Pakoštane and Dalmatia - concluded the energetic owner, Martina.

Photo: Nikola Zoko