Mokosh – Split's oasis of taste, art and togetherness
- Vedran Obućina
- 2 days ago
- 4 min read
In the heart of Split, hidden among the coloruful apartment buildings and bustling streets, lies a very special world – Mokosh. The name of this restaurant comes from the Slavic goddess of fertility, earth, and the feminine principle, and the symbolism of the name Mokosh literally lives through every inch of the space: from the garden full of herbs to the peaceful ambiance of the Art Nouveau villa in which the restaurant is located. However, Mokosh is not just a place to eat – it is a space for meeting, sharing, creativity and a carefully crafted experience.

Karla Malenica, the restaurant manager, told us with great enthusiasm how Mokosh was conceived as a “small city within a city” – a space for the local community where the spirit of gathering and socializing will be reborn, with good food and warm hospitality. “Mokosh was created because of our local guests,” says Karla. “So they can chat, leave the kids to play, and feel at home.” A children’s corner is also planned – a quiet zone where the youngest can play waiters and chefs, while parents relax in the garden or bar. This care for every family member indicates that Mokosh is not just a restaurant – it is an experience, a concept, a philosophy of life.

The entire menu, from appetizers to desserts, is designed for shared enjoyment – inspired by the tradition of family tables. Everything is made in the in-house kitchen, while the ingredients are sourced from small family farms and the Split market. Head chef Alberto Garcia Perez, with extensive experience from some of the world’s best three-Michelin-starred restaurants, describes Karlo as “the most relaxed and professional” chef she has worked with, selecting fresh ingredients daily, often in person at the fish market. The food at Mokosh truly bears the stamp of dedication and refinement – whether it’s a creamy croquette with prosciutto and cheese or a hummus full of flavour and character.

And the hummus was our enthusiastic greeting from the kitchen. Hummus at Mokosh is not just an appetizer – it is a real little explosion of flavor that tells a story of the kitchen's creativity. Made with chickpeas and carefully balanced spices, it is served with marinated olives, which makes a great combination. Its texture is perfectly smooth, and the flavour is complex and profound. It is served with warm, soft pita bread, ideal for sharing, but good enough to keep for yourself.

The main courses are conceived from the countryside (meat) and the sea. As a starter, we were served Iberian croquettes (croquettes ibericas), which brings with it a touch of Albert's homeland. The croquettes are filled with cream cheese and Dalmatian prosciutto—crispy on the outside and luxuriously soft and full of flavor on the inside. The salty prosciutto and rich cheese in a silky interior evoke a sense of home-made luxury, while the lightly browned crust adds the perfect contrast.

The house wine goes great with all that. We decided on Mokosh crno, a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, and trnjak, a powerful and characteristic wine from the karst vineyards of Herzegovina and Dalmatia, known for its rich body and notes of dark fruit and spices. Mokosh white is Malvasia, but the overall wine list is very well put together. Domestic wines predominate, mostly from Dalmatia and Istria, but wine lovers will also find exciting wines from France and Italy on the menu. However, Mokosh is not so much known for its wines as for its cocktails!

The bar at Mokosh is a story in itself. Tomislav Mikić, bar manager and mixologist, creates cocktails in his own "mixology laboratory," using natural juices and syrups from herbs from the garden and fermented and dehydrated ingredients—all prepared on site. Every sip carries the taste of the season and the story of creation. The daily dynamics of the space change with the light: a morning brunch with the smell of pastries and fresh fruit turns into an evening magic of cocktails and conversation at dusk.

We continue with the main course, which is simply called brujet, and it is a Dalmatian seafood stew with monkfish, shrimp, potatoes, and a touch of saffron. The brujet we served at Mokosh is a true ode to Dalmatian tradition, but in a refined and contemporary version. The monkfish, known for its firm and tender meat, paired perfectly with the sweet shrimp and soft-boiled potatoes, while a touch of saffron gave the dish a noble warmth and a slight exoticism. The sauce, thick and full of flavor, is reminiscent of slow cooking in old taverns, and yet bears the mark of the chef's thoughtfulness and modern skill.

The interior of Mokosh restaurant is the result of a collaboration with architect Katja Stubnya and design studio 502. The space was designed to combine historical elements with modern design. Artworks by Jelena Bando and ceramic vases from the Anaestudio studio further enrich the ambiance. The restaurant's garden, with its distinctive fountain and natural shade, creates a relaxing oasis that is easy to enjoy.

The villa that houses Mokosh has its own special story – originally designed by Czech architect Karel Beneš, it came to life as the home of Split's elite thanks to Kamil Tončić. Today, that same villa is reviving as a center of social and cultural life, just as intended.
Mokosh is truly a space that lovingly brings togetherness at the table, revives history, creates a culture of living, and subordinates gastronomy to life, not the other way around. In a time when experience is often more important than food itself, Mokosh is a place where one does not exclude the other. Here, the flavors are authentic, the spaces are inspiring, and the people are warm, present, and dedicated. If you are looking for an oasis in the city to take a break and delight your palate and soul, Mokosh is waiting for you.
Mokosh
Slavićeva Ul. 44, 21000, Split, Croatia
+385 21 244 776