Mrkopalj Heritage Collection – the history and people of Gorski Kotar

A visit to the Mrkopalj Heritage Collection is a journey through centuries of life in the Gorani region. We were guided through the collection by the director of the Mrkopalj Tourist Information Center, Goranka Tuhtan, whose knowledge of local history turns every photograph, object and document into a living story.

Right from the start, we learn that a large part of the exhibits are gifts from local residents, while what could not be preserved is documented in photographs. The collection contains more than 550 photographs, including old houses, interiors and rooms that look as if time stood still a hundred years ago.

A special place is occupied by the timeline that shows the most important events in the history of Mrkopalj. Although some recent archaeological research has shifted certain dates by almost a century, it testifies to the long continuity of life in this area. Among the most interesting finds are ancient Croatian pottery fragments found at the Fortica site, which offers one of the most beautiful views of the entire Mrkopaljsko polje.

Mrkopalj was first mentioned in written sources in 1477, but it really flourished in the 18th century with the construction of the Karolina Road, which connected Karlovac and Bakar. This road encouraged trade, settlement, and economic progress. There are also lesser-known stories associated with it, such as the one about the architect Anton Matija Weiss, whose wooden viaduct in Brestova Draga proved a tragic failure due to the harsh winters of Gorski Kotar. After an accident in which several people died, Weiss, unable to bear the consequences of the tragedy, took his own life. Karolina was not only a road, but also a vital link between Gorski Kotar and the Primorje region. Women from Mrkopalj would walk to Bakar and Bribir, where they would exchange potatoes, apples, and other products for fish, figs, and salt.

A large part of Mrkopalj's identity is linked to its rich religious heritage. The first chapel was built in 1764 by three carpenters who arrived from the Czech Republic – Iskra, Zaputil and Horaček. One of them also made a wooden statue of Our Lady of Sorrows, which is still kept in the parish church today. As the number of believers grew, the church of St. Philip was built between 1771 and 1778. During World War II, in 1944, the church was bombed and almost completely destroyed. Only the statue of Our Lady of Lourdes remained intact, which the residents of Mrkopalj still consider a special sign. On the occasion of the parish's 250th anniversary, the statue was returned to its original place, where open-air masses are held in good weather today.

A special place in local history is also occupied by the vow made to the Mother of God during the plague of 1789. After the epidemic suddenly ended, the locals fulfilled their promise and built the Church of Our Lady of Sorrows between 1850 and 1854. Word of this event even reached Pope Gregory XVI, who granted Mrkopalj a special indulgence.

Maria Theresa and her son Joseph II had a significant influence on the town's development. It was Joseph II who granted Mrkopalj a charter in 1785, declaring it a privileged royal market town with its own coat of arms and seal. The market mast, a symbol of this status, still stands in the center of the town today. The period of Habsburg reforms brought about the development of education, agriculture, and beekeeping. Special attention was paid to the cultivation of potatoes, fruit trees, and sheep. Research has shown that sheep raised in the Mrkopalj area produced exceptionally high-quality wool and meat, which is why the sheep is also featured on the town's coat of arms. This wool is still used to make famous woolen socks – štokaljci, which are worn not only in winter but also in summer because they regulate humidity and temperature perfectly.

Mrkopalj proudly bears the title of the cradle of Croatian skiing. In 1913, the first cross-country skiing course in Croatia was held here, and the following year, the first Croatian and Slavonian championship. The first Croatian ski jump was built in 1934 according to a design by Ivan Rožman, who later designed the famous Planica. The jump was created thanks to Norwegian sailors who stayed in Rijeka during the winter and found ideal conditions for their favorite sport in Mrkopalj.

The collection also includes replicas of traditional folk costumes, objects from everyday life, old school exercise books, photographs, and numerous everyday objects that testify to the modest but rich life of Gorski kotar families. Particularly interesting are the stories about the simple diet in which potatoes were indispensable, as well as the old ways of preparing coffee and the lives of numerous generations who lived from forestry and agriculture.

At the end of the tour, the story takes us to one of the greatest natural values ​​of this region, Bijele and Samarske stijene, one of two strict nature reserves in Croatia. There, human activity is strictly limited in order to preserve the original flora and fauna. It is this untouched nature, together with the rich history and living memory of the local community, that makes Mrkopalj a unique place where natural and cultural heritage harmoniously intertwine.

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A visit to the Homeland Collection shows that behind every object there is a story, behind every photograph a life, and behind every historical piece of information there are people who still proudly preserve their region's identity. The collection is given special value by the enthusiasm of Goranka Tuhtan, who, through her storytelling, makes the history of Mrkopalj alive, interesting, and close to every visitor.