Pakoštane - between sea and lake

When you want to escape the hustle and bustle of the city, explore Pakoštane - a place that has been increasingly discovered in recent years by lovers of authentic destinations, top-notch gastronomy, and a slower Mediterranean lifestyle. Located between Zadar and Šibenik, only a few hours' drive from Zagreb, Pakoštane offers what few other destinations on the Adriatic can combine in such a small space - sea, lake, islands, history, top-notch gastronomy and stories of people who live life to the fullest here. It is precisely because of this unique combination that Pakoštane carries the slogan "At the sea next to the lake", because here the sea and Lake Vrana do not exist next to each other, but together they shape the identity of the entire region.

Pakoštane is one of the rare places on the Croatian coast where, in the same day, you can start the morning swimming in the crystal-clear sea, spend the afternoon cycling along the largest natural lake in Croatia, and end the evening with a glass of wine and a view of the islets emerging from the Pašman Channel.

On one side is the Vrana Lake Nature Park, one of the most important ornithological areas in Europe, surrounded by cycling paths, viewpoints and fields that have fed the local population for centuries. Even today, locals will tell you with a smile that everything was once grown here except bananas and pineapples. On the other side, a completely different landscape opens up, dotted with the islets of Sv. Juština, Veliki Školj and Babuljaš, symbols of the Pakoštani region, which are now connected through the unique “Three Islands Trail”.

This outdoor and heritage story leads through legends, history and Mediterranean nature, and each islet carries its own identity: a church, a cross or a small forest. A special place is occupied by the islet of Sv. Juština, one of the most recognizable symbols of Pakoštani. For centuries, it has been a refuge for the local population during attacks from the mainland, and today it hides one of the most beautiful views of the entire town, which you can reach by kayak, pedal boat, boat or, in the warmer part of the year, by swimming.

One of the most special promenades in this area is certainly Put Baba Dora - a panoramic coastal path that connects Pakoštane and Draga. As you walk along the sea and the impressive flysch rampart that has been shaped by waves and wind for centuries, it is hard not to stop every few minutes and admire the view. In addition to the beautiful nature, this path also hides a legend that the locals still tell today. Under the ramparts is a small yellow cave known as "Kuća Baba Dora". In the past, grandmothers used it to scare children so that they would not stray far from home, saying that Baba Dora takes naughty little ones to her cave by the sea. Today, this story is part of the local identity and another proof of how inextricably linked nature, history and legends are in Pakoštane.

Few people know that Pakoštane was one of the first places on the Adriatic to be discovered by the legendary Club Mediterranee. Back in the 60s of the last century, the French opened their famous resort here with thatched houses located in a deep sandy bay surrounded by pine forests. It was a moment that changed the life of the town forever. The local population got new jobs, many traveled and worked at Club Med resorts around the world, and new cultures, languages, and customs began to arrive in Pakoštane. This is how some of the most beautiful life stories of this town were created. Pakoštane brides who came from Morocco, Greece, Egypt, Chad, or Madagascar, and their descendants still create a special multicultural atmosphere in the middle of the small Dalmatian town today. Today, the former Club Med has been transformed into the Pine Beach Resort Pakoštane, one of the most beautiful family resorts on the Croatian coast, which still preserves the spirit of a relaxed Mediterranean life in the shade of pine trees and with the sound of the sea. Located in a dense pine forest next to one of the most beautiful sandy beaches on the Adriatic, and special for its accommodation concept that returns guests to a simpler and slower way of life. Instead of classic hotel rooms, guests stay in rustic bungalows made of natural materials such as reed and wood, located in a dense pine forest right by the sea. Some of the bungalows are intentionally without televisions and classic electrical installations to emphasize a return to nature, peace and relaxation without digital distractions. The resort fosters an eco-friendly vacation philosophy, and the stay is further complemented by an all-inclusive concept, shared Mediterranean spaces and more than 20 sports and outdoor activities.

Not far from Pakoštane is one of the most fascinating places in Croatian history, the Maškovića Han in Vrana, the westernmost monument of secular Ottoman architecture in Europe. What makes this place special is not only its architecture but the incredible life story of Jusuf Mašković. A boy born into a poor family in Vrana became one of the most powerful men in the Ottoman Empire and an admiral of the Ottoman fleet. At the height of his power, he decided to build a monumental han in his hometown as a place to rest and live after his service. However, political intrigues interrupted his dream before it was completed. Today, the renovated Maškovića Han is living a new life, offering modern travelers a special encounter between oriental history and the Dalmatian way of life.

A stay at the Heritage Hotel Maškovića Han is an experience of living inside one of the most special historical buildings in Dalmatia. The accommodation is decorated in accordance with the original architecture of the inn, so the rooms retain authentic stone walls, wooden details and the atmosphere of oriental-Mediterranean heritage, but with modern comfort and elegant design. All rooms are located on the ground floor of the historical complex, and a special atmosphere is created by peace, thick stone walls and a view of the inner courtyard reminiscent of old Mediterranean palaces.

For gastronomes, there is the TIMAR restaurant, located in the former mosque, where Dalmatian and oriental cuisine come together. The menu is based on seasonal and local ingredients, from fresh fish and lamb to vegetables from nearby OPGs, while the contemporary interpretation of dishes brings an elegant blend of tradition and a modern approach to gastronomy. Dinner in the stone rooms of the inn or on hidden terraces with a glass of local wine or unique signature cocktails is one of those experiences that guests often say that they found a completely different Dalmatia in Vrana.

In recent years, Pakoštane has also become a serious gastronomic destination. Here you will smell fritters, mimci, pogače, bob na pesto, brudet, barbecue, pasta... Following the scents that spread through the cobblestone streets, your path will often lead you to Parparot, a modern city restaurant known for its top-notch steaks and dinners under the stars. The elegant atmosphere, contemporary cuisine and view of the night sky create an experience that is why tables are reserved in advance.

For fish lovers, there is the Pakoštanac tavern with a tradition of more than half a century and one of the most famous places for fish specialties in the Pakoštane region. The restaurant, which locals and guests have been returning to for generations, cherishes traditional Dalmatian cuisine based on fresh Adriatic fish, shellfish, squid and simple flavors that emphasize the quality of the ingredients.

However, what makes Pakoštane different from many other destinations is not only the landscapes or gastronomy - but the people. In a beautiful, old tavern in the city center, you will find the center of the Šarin family farm, which will be presented to you in the best possible way by the cheerful Tonka. It invites all guests to the tavern, offering homemade liqueurs, juices and products from the fields, and telling the story of the life of the local population, work on the land and everyday life that has shaped this area for decades.

A special experience is also provided by the event from Grandma's Kitchen, and one of the more popular experiences is the macaroni-making workshop with Grandma Ana and her team in the oldest tavern in Pakoštane, as well as enjoying homemade food by Bebi (the local nickname for chef Robert Vulin). While the homemade pasta is being kneaded and the thick tomato sauce is being cooked, the smells of childhood, laughter and stories of local residents spread throughout the room. And if you want to experience something even more special, after a fine meal they will invite you to a game of briškula or trešeta with the local 'team' who will very quickly accept you as their own, inviting you to come back to this beautiful place at the first opportunity, to a destination that definitely tells the most beautiful story of Central Dalmatia.

Photos: NIkola Zoko i promo TZ Pakoštane