Why all paths lead to Nin

Just half an hour's drive from Zadar is Nin - one of the most special Croatian towns, a visit to which is like stepping back into history, into the most beautiful Mediterranean postcard. Nin is one of the oldest Croatian royal towns, a place where Croatian princes and kings reigned, a town of Glagolitic script, salt, medicinal mud, and a rich gastronomic tradition. History here is not hidden behind closed museum doors - it can be felt at every turn, in the stone streets, churches, remains of the Roman era, which Nin has kept for more than 2000 years, telling different stories.

A tour of Nin, which also holds the title of European Destination of Excellence, is best started at the monument to Prince Branimir, a symbol of Croatian statehood and one of the most important rulers in Croatian history. This is where the story of Nin as the political and religious center of early medieval Croatia begins. Crossing the stone bridge, through the former gate (at the entrance of which there is a vessel for wine and bread carved into the stone - a symbol used to welcome guests), you will enter the island on which Nin is located. The stone streets will lead you through history and the present, and the decorations on the walls and remnants of history will encourage you to 'read' the Glagolitic script. You will very quickly understand that throughout its history, Nin was one of the most important Glagolitic centers, and the combination of Croatian culture, religion and language is still deeply woven into its identity today.

The patron saint of Nin is Saint Anselm, and his church is located in the city center. Come in, feel the beauty of this sacred building, and leave some time to explore the rich collection of gold and silver that testifies to the power and importance of Nin through the centuries. Nin also hides one of the largest Roman temples on the eastern Adriatic coast, but also one of Croatia's sacred symbols - the Church of the Holy Cross. The stone church is known as the "smallest cathedral in the world" and is located in the very center of Nin. Many also call it a kind of sundial because the position of the sun's rays used to determine the time and seasons. Not far from this interesting church is Meštrović's statue of Gregory of Nin, a symbol of the Croatian language and Glagolitic heritage. One of the indispensable traditions of visiting this city is to touch the statue's thumb, which is believed to bring luck, fulfill wishes, and ensure a return to this magical Dalmatian town.

Few people know that Nin also hides an impressive ancient story. At the beginning of the 20th century, archaeologist and priest Don Luka Jelić was exploring the area around the Church of St. Nicholas and noticed the remains of a monumental Roman temple built into the foundations of the church. The church was then demolished to reveal one of the most important ancient sites on the eastern coast of the Adriatic. Today, remains from the 1st century are visible, and numerous investigations have also uncovered traces of a forum, mosaics, ancient amphorae and objects that testify to how important Nin was as a trading and cultural center in Roman times.

You can hear about this in the Nina Museum Collection - a museum in the city center, passing through different historical periods - from the Paleolithic, Bronze and Iron Ages to the Romans and ancient Croats. During a tour of this museum, you will also hear the story of the Condura Croatica - an ancient Croatian ship that Croatian sailors once sailed on the Adriatic. Original parts of the ship were found during archaeological research and today testify to the developed maritime tradition of this region.

A visit to the Salt Museum and the Nin Saltworks Park is an unmissable experience for every visitor. In addition to learning about the entire production process, you will also walk through a unique landscape that is also an ornithological reserve rich in numerous bird species. The Nin Saltworks covers an area of ​​55 hectares and is larger than the historic center of the city. Salt has been produced here for more than 1,500 years, and it is interesting that it is actually produced by nature - the sun, the sea and the wind - while man only harvests it. The production process takes place through five stages of evaporation - it gradually passes from pool to pool through wooden sluices, and as the water evaporates, the salt concentration increases.

The final stage of crystallization produces the salt we know today. Nin hides another special feature - the flower of salt. This delicate layer of salt is formed on the very surface of the pool and is harvested exclusively by hand, early in the morning or late in the evening using special micron sieves. Due to its mineral richness, it is considered one of the highest quality salts in the world and is often called "salt caviar".

Nin salt is unique because it draws its minerals from the healing mud on which the salt pan is located. It is further unique because the wind from Velebit brings pollen from medicinal plants. The salt here is not processed industrially or further purified because it already naturally contains minerals and iodine.

Believe it or not – in Nin! Nin and its surroundings are today one of the most important cherry producers in Croatia, and the CRO Cherry plantations are among the largest and most modern orchards in Europe. This impressive plantation has around 30 thousand trees spread over 42 hectares, where as many as 20 different varieties of cherries ripen. Thanks to the unique microclimate created by the sea, sun and bora wind, the fruits achieve exceptional sweetness and quality. The harvest lasts around 60 days, and its very beginning marks the ideal time to visit and enjoy fresh, juicy cherries that have become a true symbol of entering the Nin summer. If you don't manage to get to CRO Cherry during cherry picking time, you can taste cherries in jams, vinegar, liqueurs, but also dried fruits that have become one of the most interesting souvenirs.

Queen's Beach in Nin is one of the most famous and most beautiful sandy beaches on the Adriatic, located near the royal town of Nin. This spacious lagoon with a long shallow sea is perfect for families with children, but also for anyone looking for peace, nature and an authentic Mediterranean experience without big crowds. It is special for its fine sand, warm and shallow sea and spectacular views of the Velebit mountain in the background, which gives it an almost unreal landscape. However, this beach is also known for the healing mud that naturally settles in the lagoon. Visitors use it for relaxation, skin care and natural treatments, which is why Nin is often called an "open-air wellness destination". According to legend, this is where the wife of the first Croatian king Tomislav, Queen Jelena, enjoyed herself, after whom the beach was named. In addition to swimming, the beach is ideal for walking, relaxing and watching sunsets, and due to the wind and shallow sea, it is also very popular among kitesurfing and windsurfing enthusiasts during the summer months.

In the heart of this royal city is Konoba Bonkula, which many will recommend as a place where you can eat something authentic, delicious, and at great prices. At this place, the day begins with a traditional Dalmatian breakfast and ends with an excellent 'spicy' meal with a recognizable Dalmatian 'umami taste'. While you wait for the owner Mate (the owner is the famous chef Mate Stulić) to serve you a meal, you will want to find out exactly what the word bonkula means, after which the tavern is named. The explanation is very simple - in Dalmatian speech, it means a person with a good heart, a gourmet who enjoys food, company, and a leisurely life. As soon as you are in this place, you will realize that you are a bonkul, which, along with the excellent food, gives a special dimension to the experience of reinterpreting Dalmatian cuisine in a modern way. A special place on the menu of this tavern is also occupied by Ninski šokol, an authentic delicacy prepared from pork neck, marinated in salt, red wine and spices, then smoked and dried in the bora wind.

Are you wondering where the smell of fresh grilled fish spreads in Nin? The answer is very simple - it comes from Konoba Dalmacija, one of the most famous places in the heart of the royal city of Nin. Konoba Dalmacija has been cultivating authentic Dalmatian cuisine based on simple but top-notch recipes for years. The emphasis here is on fresh fish that arrives daily from local fishermen, quality olive oil, seasonal vegetables and local ingredients that form the core of the Mediterranean diet. Sea bream, sea bass, squid and other seafood delicacies are prepared on the grill, which exudes the true taste of the Adriatic. What makes Konoba Dalmacija special is not only the food, but also the atmosphere - relaxed, warm and genuinely Dalmatian.

Although summer has not officially begun yet, the Days of the City of Nin event (3-8 June) opens the summer season in one of the oldest Croatian royal towns. As part of this event, filled with a rich cultural and artistic program, the Day of Croatian Diplomacy (7 June) will be marked, as well as the beginning of the 'Nin Summer Festival'. Just at the official start of summer, the Festival of Sun and Light is being held in the Church of the Holy Cross, a unique cultural experience in one of the most famous sacral monuments in Croatia. July brings the most famous gastronomic event - the Nin Chocolate Festival (26 July), which brings together masters of traditional chocolate making and numerous visitors eager for authentic flavors, followed by the Salt Festival (30 July), as well as Fisherman's Evenings, open-air concerts and family events that transform the town into a large summer stage where you should be, dance, sing and have a good time!

Photos: Nikola Zoko i Darko Kešnjer, TZ Nin