25th Wine with a Spoon: Gablec at the Pri Nami

Organisers Renata Cisar and Mustafa Topčagić organised their silver edition, the 25th event 'Wine with a spoon', at Pri Nami, a popular bar in the centre of Zagreb, which has recently been operating as a snack bar since introducing a daily offer of local 'gablec' (brunch) at very popular prices.

Pri Nami is located near Nama, the famous department store, but its entrance is not on Ilica; rather, it is from the Zakmardi steps that lead to the Lotrščak tower. Co-owners Marin Levaj and Šiško Horvat Majcan converted the former restaurant premises into a bar, which quickly gained popularity among the younger urban crowd, as well as domestic and international tourists. Marin, a journalist by profession, and Šiško, an actor, did not want their bar to be a place where only drinks are poured and music played; instead, they set about organising various programs.

Several days a week, Pri Nami hosts light jazz concerts, book promotions, poetry evenings, and other cultural events. However, the novelty that brought the oeno-gastro project ‘Vino uz žliču’ and them together was the introduction of ‘gablec’ from 10 am to 5 pm. They came up with this idea spontaneously, after increasingly frequent inquiries from guests about whether they had anything to eat. In an effort to please them, they hired chef Mladen Noršić, who created a simple and affordable menu, based on local ingredients.

At the presentation to journalists, the hosts and organizers made an effort to pair wines with dishes from their kitchen. Before that, the appetite was whetted by brandies from the Apuška distillery in Slavonski Brod, presented by owner Siniša Panthy. These are entirely natural fruit brandies, made exclusively from fresh, healthy, and ripe fruit harvested in Slavonia. The family tradition began in 1932, when Bela pl. Panty Sr., originally from Slovakia, an agronomist by profession, built a summer house in Brodsko Vinogorje, converted the surrounding land into fertile vineyards and orchards, and initiated the family's production of wine and fruit brandies. They make their products exclusively according to the traditional family recipe, just like their ancestor, whom the children called Apuška (translated as ‘daddy’) and after whom the distillery was named, would have done. They double-distill them in a copper pot still, or as they would say in Slavonia, they make prepeke. Their most popular brands are Dunja ( and Kajsija (as the local name for apricots), and the most special is Breskva, perhaps the only such brandy in Croatia, which they produce from an old variety of vineyard peaches.

While the dishes were being slowly prepared in the kitchen, Mikele Kalcina from Grožnjan in Istria presented his Kalcina extra-virgin olive oil. His family, he says, has been involved in olive growing and olive oil processing since ancient times, and the foundations for this family business were laid by their grandfather. What started as a small production for their own needs has patiently developed over time, and today the Kalcina family has 1,700 trees in their olive grove. The olive grove is situated in the picturesque and tranquil Istrian town of Kostanjica, surrounded by hilly terrain that allows the best aspects of the Mediterranean climate to be preserved within the grove itself, thereby imparting the olives with a high-quality aroma and polyphenols. They cultivate the varieties Coratina, Leccino, Frantoio, Istrian Bjelica, Moraiolo, and Karbonaca, and the top quality of their olive oil is evidenced by numerous gold medals and expert awards.

After a short presentation of brandies and olive oils, a welcome basket was served at our house, which included young kajmak with chives, sardine pâté, and steak tartare. The sparkling wine complemented the snacks, Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay Brut, from the Kopjar winery, located on the border of Varaždin and Krapina-Zagorje counties. The Chardonnay is made from organically grown grapes, and the sparkling wine, which winemaker Robert Kopjar personally presented, was created using the traditional method of second fermentation in the bottle. It was aged on fine lees for two years and is characterized by elegant creaminess, a complex body with aromas of bread crust and butter, as well as pronounced fruitiness and minerality. The Kopjar winery is recognised for producing wines that are among the most highly awarded in their region, as noted by Decanter.

Many believe that Ajngemahtec (German: eingemachtes – all in one), a favourite on Zagreb tables, comes from Austria. However, there is also information that this rich and hearty soup originates from the Danube Swabians. This dish was paired with a wine from Baranja, freshly bottled Belje Graševina 2024 from the Select line, rich in apple and citrus aromas with a hint of minerality. It tastes juicy and rich with a slightly crunchy texture. Graševina, one of the largest Croatian wineries, was promoted by the head of key buyers, Vinko Crnjac, who noted that Graševina is the most common grape in the Belje assortment. Graševina, as well as other Select wines, is a real value for money, as evidenced by numerous international medals in its category. They are available for purchase in supermarkets and wine shops daily. They are an excellent choice not only for restaurants, but also for bistros, beach bars, grill houses, pizzerias, and cafes.

Despite his good will, Zoran Pantalon, director of the Royal Vineyards from Petrčane in the Zadar hinterland, was unable to attend the presentation, so he was replaced in that role by Zdravko Žuža, owner of the Bora winery from nearby Podgradina, which is an excellent example of collegiality. He emphasized that it was a special honor for him to present the Crljenak 2020, which is mainly grown in Kaštela, but also achieves excellent results in the Royal Vineyards. Let us recall that Crljenak is an old Croatian autochthonous variety, and this one from the Royal Vineyards is fruity and drinkable, with aromas of plum and berries. It has mild acidity, moderate tannins, an elegant structure, and a finely dosed wood character. It comes from vineyards situated on picturesque slopes directly above the sea, offering a view of Punta Skala and Zadar. Although the Chicken Perkelt with chicken and homemade noodles is not a typical dish for that region, the Crljenak went perfectly with it, and this pairing was declared the best according to the votes of journalists.

Between courses of food and wine, the modern and innovative products of MOGA d.o.o. from Donji Miholjac were presented by their sales representative, Željko Ronta. These are multifunctional solutions of top design that easily integrate into any exterior and are fully compliant with regulations, allowing them to meet the minimum technical requirements without difficulty. MOGA facilities are an excellent fit for the needs of hotels, restaurants, beach bars, and other catering and tourist facilities. The offer includes mobile catering facilities, modular units and sales stands that are ideal for use during the tourist season, as well as at festivals, fairs and similar events. All facilities are easy to manage, technologically innovative, multifunctional, and fully customizable to end customers. The company MOGA d.o.o. invites all visionaries, entrepreneurs and enthusiasts to join the crowdfunding campaign for the development of new innovative products that will improve mobile gastronomy and enrich the tourist offer. More information and participation: https://bonafidesinvest.eu/hr/campaign/from-trailer-to-culinary-wonder-your-contribution-makes-all-the-difference/.

Since father Zdravko introduced the ‘competition’, the privilege of saying a few words about the family winery Bora was given to his son, Domagoj Žuža. Cuttlefish and octopus goulash is a specialty of the Pri Nami house, and the Bora Cuvée 2020 wine successfully coped with such a flavorful dish. It is made from three types of grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah in equal proportions and carefully nurtured in oak barrique barrels. Aromas of plum, black currant, and dark chocolate characterize it. The acids are lively yet harmonious, and a certain spiciness lingers in the aftertaste. They pay a great deal of attention to the design of the label, because it is important to them that the wine is as visually appealing on the outside as it is in the bottle, and this has been recognized and rewarded by the profession. The Bora winery is located in the Benkovac-Stankovac wine region, where the grapes are warmed by the warm currents of the Novigrad Sea, and the Velebit bura blows from the other direction. As the local word for this wind is bora, the winery was named after it.

Red velvet cake with berries was the dessert that sweetened the evening. KAST Traminac 2023 was excellent, featuring this Italian dessert, which is delicate and elegant, with balanced sweetness and pleasant floral aromas, and a bright, fluttering nose. Its pleasant and firm structure makes it drinkable and allows for long-lasting enjoyment. KAST is a new boutique winery in Ilok owned by the Kovčalija family, who own the Dunav hotel and restaurant. While spouses Željka and Renato are more dedicated to the hospitality industry, the winery has been taken over by their daughter, Katarina, and son, Stjepan, after whose initials the winery is named. Their vision is to transform Ilok wines from everyday wines into wines for special moments. In this way, they intend to refine and continue the family tradition that their ancestors on their mother's and father's sides began.

As a surprise of the evening, the cheerful company of journalists, winemakers, distillers, and olive growers was accompanied into the Zagreb night until a new meeting by the pleasant keyboard playing of Leone Duran, a music professor who occasionally plays at Pri Nami.

FAMA / Foto: Julio Frangen