Bistro Fotić welcomed 29. Wine with the Spoon

At Bistro Fotić, right in the very heart of Zagreb (25 Gajeva Street), meals have been lovingly prepared every day for years. Both Zagreb locals and tourists come here to enjoy hearty homemade meat dishes, as well as fish specialities, fine stews and pasta.

The bistro was founded and successfully run for many years by the Badrov family of photographers. At the end of last year it changed ownership and is now in the hands of the Khouri family. They do not intend to alter much, but rather to preserve the well-established tradition while raising the level of service even further. They also wish to retain the distinctive interior design, as guests greatly enjoy dining in such an atmosphere.

The wine list consists exclusively of Croatian wines, with the sole exceptions of one prosecco and one champagne. Most of the staff have remained, and former chef Alen Krnetić has returned. Together with his team, he devised and delivered a menu based on traditional home cooking for the 29th edition of “Vino uz žlicu”, an eno-gastronomic project that has been led for seven years by its founders, Renata Cisar and Mustafa Topčagić.

The gathering at Bistro Fotić began with a selection of brandies and liqueurs from the Istarska kapljica distillery in Kaštelir. As one of the owners and director, Goran Špehar, emphasised, the base for their range is a brandy produced by distilling the whole grape, not merely pomace as is customary. In this way, all the aromas and components are transferred into the spirit itself, which, although completely clear, delivers a unique and full aromatic experience. From a total of eighteen labels, Špehar presented Lozovača, Medica, Medežija and Biska brandies, along with the Mediteran and Vragulin liqueurs. Lozovača, which he says he alone produces in Istria, marked the beginning of the Istarska kapljica story. Medica is made exclusively with the finest acacia honey; Medežija follows an old recipe enriched with twenty-six varieties of indigenous medicinal herbs and mistletoe leaves; and Biska is also produced traditionally, by macerating mistletoe leaves in grape brandy. The Mediteran liqueur (honey and teran wine) is sweetened solely with acacia honey, while Vragulin is a creative blend of premium grape brandy with ginger and chilli, enhanced by rosehip and honey.

With the fine homemade bread baked daily at Bistro Fotić, we tasted natural extra virgin olive oil and pumpkin seed oil from family farms. Patrick Pereša from Fažana in Istria presented four labels of his Oli Oil extra virgin olive oils, three of which are single-varietal – Carbonaca, Leccio del Corno and Buža – along with one blend.

His olive groves, comprising 700 trees, are located near Vodnjan, an area widely renowned for its rich olive-growing tradition, which is why indigenous olive varieties from this region are particularly prized. Oli Oil is produced precisely from the fruit of these native varieties, cultivated with special care and devotion, something that can be sensed in every drop where superb flavour and quality intertwine.

Alongside the delicious bread bites, we sampled homemade pumpkin seed oil produced by the Benjamin Knezičić family farm in Gašinci, near Đakovo. The high quality of this oil, obtained from the finest pumpkins grown on the family estate, reflects a deep respect for traditional production methods. After harvesting, carefully selected pumpkins are cleaned and the seeds separated to ensure the highest oil quality. The seeds are then cold-pressed, preserving the oil’s freshness and nutritional value. The result is 100% pure pumpkin seed oil with a distinctive, exceptionally rich aroma and flavour. Packed with vitamins, minerals and antioxidants, this homemade oil also offers numerous health benefits and is a perfect addition to many dishes.

With the first course – a delicious and imaginative bruschetta with smoked salmon – we were introduced to the first wine of the evening: Didin san Rosé Brut from the Slamić family boutique winery. The winery was founded by Dane Slamić, who inherited vineyards in Ljubostinje, in the hinterland of Šibenik, from his father. The business was continued by his son Davor, and is now joined by grandson Luka Slamić. In addition to Ljubostinje, the winery owns several smaller vineyards in Donje Polje near Vrpolje. Their portfolio comprises six labels, including this excellent sparkling Didin san Rosé Brut made from organically grown Grenache Noir in Nadin near Zadar. The sparkling wine is produced using the traditional bottle fermentation method, with particular care taken to minimise the use of chemical aids such as sulphur. The Slamić family strives to produce organic wines that, besides their high quality, reflect the authenticity of the terroir.

The culinary and oenological journey then continued in an Istrian vein. Pljukanci pasta in a prosciutto and sage sauce was served with Hrvatica Rosé 2024 from the Agapito winery in Marčenegla near Buzet. The winery is run by young Paolo Agapito, continuing a family tradition dating back to the 19th century. In the cellar they combine tradition and modernity, focusing on indigenous and somewhat forgotten varieties such as duranija, trbljan, likant and muškat crni, including hrvatica, which had once been on the brink of extinction, preserved on only a handful of vines. This fresh and highly drinkable rosé underwent four hours of cryomaceration (keeping the must at 4–5°C to extract additional aromas), followed by fermentation with wild yeasts. The unusual Hrvatica intertwined beautifully with the rich prosciutto and sage sauce, creating such an excellent pairing that most of the attending journalists declared it the highlight of the evening. Agapito is undoubtedly a winery that will contribute much more to Istrian and Croatian viticulture, and it is currently on its way to obtaining organic certification.

The colours of Istria were also represented by the Radoš winery from Kaštelir, presented by spouses Sabina and Dejan Radoš. In their case too, this is a continuation of family tradition. Dejan represents the fourth generation engaged in winemaking, and they currently produce nine labels from varieties including Malvasia, Chardonnay, Teran, Borgonja, Merlot and Yellow Muscat. On this occasion they chose to present an Istrian classic – Malvasia from the 2024 vintage – characterised by clear varietal expression and proving gastronomically versatile alongside a risotto with Adriatic prawns. Within the winery they run a tavern where they host local wine enthusiasts and foreign tourists for guided tastings. Their wines can be sampled not only at the estate but also in restaurants in the surrounding area and along the coast. With an excellent balance of quality and price, they are now taking steps – particularly with Malvasia – to establish themselves on the demanding Zagreb hospitality scene.

Just when one thinks everything is known about the renowned Iločki podrumi, the winery surprises once again, this time with its first single-varietal red wine – Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 from the Sofija line. Cabernet is a grape from which it is difficult to make a poor wine, but to craft an excellent one, such as the example in our glasses, requires considerable knowledge, love and effort. The Sofija line, which also includes Graševina and a white Cuvée, is aimed primarily at the HoReCa sector. The grapes were cultivated on a site in Ilok closest to the Danube, named after Countess Sofija Odescalchi, who was responsible for the restoration of the Principovac estate in the 18th century, giving it the form it retains today. The Cabernet Sauvignon was presented by Antonia Glavan Petanjek from the winery’s marketing department, who noted that the wine was aged for two years in Slavonian oak. It displays aromas of plum, ripe sour cherry, gentle vanilla and smoke, with silky tannins, making it a perfect match for marinated veal ficleki with grilled vegetables.

The Bjelovar-Bilogora region is not widely known for wine production, yet young winemaker Marin Grgić of the Grgić winery is well on his way to correcting this historical oversight. He was the first in his family to pursue winemaking professionally, producing wines from as many as eight varieties. He achieves his best results on sandy soils around Bilogora near Podravina, formed of sedimentary rock and rolling hillocks, which influence soil composition, texture and slope. For the sweet finale of the evening, served with panna cotta with forest fruits and walnuts, he poured a semi-sweet Yellow Muscat 2024, which he described as the pride of their winery. His wife Andrea, who oversees fermentation in the cellar, is largely responsible for the creation of this fragrant and delicate wine. As Marin put it, this is their love wine. In addition to the typical Muscat sweetness, a gentle acidity enhances its freshness and drinkability. If any bottles can be saved, Grgić’s Yellow Muscat is likely to age gracefully for several more years. Marin Grgić also plays the tamburitza in local ensembles, and a stylised tamburitza with a grape cluster adorns his labels, uniting his devotion to music and wine.

Bistro Fotić proved to be an excellent host, confirming itself as the ideal choice for enjoying top-quality dishes and wines, as well as fine spirits and olive and pumpkin seed oils. The eno-gastronomic project “Vino uz žlicu” continues, and we look forward to the jubilee 30th edition at the end of February in Velika Gorica.

FAMA / Foto: Julio Frangen