Brgujski kapuz: red-green treasure of Ćićarija

Veli Brgud, a settlement within the Municipality of Matulji, is situated on the north-eastern edge of Ćićarija, in a fertile field framed by higher, hilly terrain. Although the old road and the motorway linking Rijeka with Rupa and Pasjak run close by, the village itself is free from the noise, haste and tension of modern traffic. Here, one can still sense the rhythm of the land and the passing of the seasons. Veli Brgud is known for its distinctive traditional costume and the Brgud bell-ringers, and alongside the carnival season it is inseparably associated with another, gastronomically significant local speciality – Brgud cabbage, a crop that is far more than an ordinary vegetable.

Our journey thus led us to the self-sustaining family farm of Ivan Radan, whose family has cultivated Brgud cabbage for generations. Around the village there are numerous “dolci”, the local term for sinkholes, where the cabbage is traditionally grown. The head of Brgud cabbage is characterised by its reddish-green hue and, unlike many other red cabbages, it is not intended solely for fresh consumption.

On the contrary, it is exceptionally well suited to pickling, which gives it added value in the kitchen. In the past it was grown exclusively for household needs, but any surplus was regularly sold in Matulji and Opatija, where it was appreciated as a high-quality and reliable ingredient. With the arrival of supermarket chains and industrially produced vegetables, the villagers organised themselves into an association in order to preserve the cabbage and its seed from disappearing. With the support of the Municipality of Matulji and the Primorje-Gorski Kotar County, the seed was sent for analysis to the Institute of Agriculture in Poreč, where it was confirmed to be an indigenous variety that thrives exclusively in this area. Unfortunately, current production quantities are still insufficient for official protection of the variety.

Throughout history, the cabbage was cultivated in fields three to four kilometres from the village, and almost all residents took part in its production. The reason for this practice is not entirely clear, though it is assumed that the plant was thus protected from pests and provided with more favourable microclimatic conditions. Sowing began around the feast of St Joseph, and the woodland area in which it was grown was cooler and rich in morning dew, ensuring sufficient moisture even during the warmer months. In autumn, medium-sized heads were selected, lifted together with their roots and stored in cellars until spring. There they were hung from beams in a dark, well-ventilated space, so that in spring they could be replanted and produce seed for the following year. Although seedlings can now be raised in nurseries, the locals still prefer the traditional method. At present, around 12,000 heads are grown annually in Brgud. The variety has a mildly peppery flavour that clearly distinguishes it from other cabbages. It cooks easily, as it is not chemically treated, but when fresh it must be consumed quickly because it tends to turn pale over time.

Brgud cabbage was once sold almost exclusively fresh, with customers pickling it themselves. Today it is mainly shredded and fermented in barrels, and is considered typical winter and “working-class” fare, particularly present during the carnival season as well as at Christmas. In the kitchen it is highly versatile: used in salads, in sarma (stuffed cabbage rolls), alongside sausages, in jota and in numerous other dishes. In Brgud it is often prepared “na padelu” – simply cooked with potatoes or beans and served as a modest yet hearty side dish.

Unfortunately, changes in lifestyle have led to the decline of agriculture and livestock farming, and many once-cultivated areas have become overgrown with forest. The remaining fields now have to be fenced to protect them from wild animals. Despite this, local interest in preserving the tradition remains strong, with a clear intention to keep the entire process ecological and to treat the plant as minimally as possible. Each year, part of the land is left fallow, and the traditional two-field and three-field crop rotation systems are still respected. In the past, only manure was used, as almost every household kept livestock; today, regrettably, fertiliser must be purchased.

The Radan family continues to pass this work down from generation to generation, and their daughter Katarina Radan is actively involved in cultivation alongside her studies in biotechnology (food technology) in Ljubljana. She believes Brgud cabbage has a future, as people are increasingly interested in the origin of their food and the way it is produced. The best proof of this is the fact that last year’s entire harvest was sold before December 2025. Demand continues to exceed supply, especially ahead of the festive season and carnival, when cabbage is indispensable for preparing sarma. Cultivation requires effort, patience and constant care, yet the satisfaction of a rich harvest confirms that such labour is worthwhile. With such young, educated and motivated people involved, it seems that for Brgud cabbage – at least for now – there is no need to worry about the future.

Photos: OPG Ivan Radan