Bugava - Tasting of Young Wines of Vis

On Saturday, 25 October 2025, as part of Sabatina in Podšpilje on the island of Vis, a professional tasting of young Vugava wines, “Bugava 2025 Wine Tasting”, was held as part of the project “Wine Trails of the Island of Vis”. The project promotes the island’s wine route and is carried out by the Tourist Board of the Town of Vis, the Tourist Board of the Town of Komiža and the UNESCO Global Geopark Vis Archipelago, with the support of the Tourist Board of the Split-Dalmatia County. The tasting was organised by the wine magazine Vinske zvijezde.

The tasting of young Vugava wines (locally known as bugava) was held before a professional panel: Dr Stipe Ivić (Institute for Adriatic Crops and Karst Reclamation, Split); Ema Rakuljić, MSc Agr., oenologist and certified wine assessor (Markus Wines); Davor Šestanović, MSc Agr., certified wine assessor (HAPIH); Ilda Stanojević, MSc Agr., assessor (Vis); and Alen Zadravec, BSc Agr., technologist and consultant. After the tasting, the assessors emphasised that the harvest had been exceptionally good and that all the wines, even at this early stage, were very expressive, fruity, and — most importantly — free of faults.

At the round table “Bugava Yesterday, Today, Tomorrow – Challenges from Vineyard to Table”, Dr Stipe Ivić highlighted: “During this tasting, we discovered far better, more aromatic and fuller wines than in previous years. The recognisable characteristics of the variety are present in all of them. It is evident that the winemakers are working in line with professional standards. We must ensure that the true nature of Vugava is felt in the glass and that everyone recognises it as the indigenous viška bugava.”

“What is the best approach when working with wine? The fewer interventions, the better! If the wine has pleasant and fresh aromas, closed racking is essential. The first rackings do not need to be open, as we once used to teach. Today, esters are key — fruity esters, ethyl esters, floral and secondary aromas. Tertiary aromas develop with ageing. Bugava is distinctive, with high alcohol and high acidity. Malolactic fermentation is also possible: with Bugava you have a wide scope for ‘experimentation’, but only with careful control and smart guidance,” said Dr Ivić.

Technologist and consultant Alen Zadravec commented on conditions in the vineyards, emphasising: “The reddening we have seen in some vineyards does not always mean it is caused by the leafhopper, as many claim. It may also be bois noir or another phytoplasma infection, which must be investigated separately. I would also highlight the importance of pruning methods. Our elders would simply cover a ‘wound on the vine’ with wet soil to prevent bacteria from entering. Today, potassium permanganate paste can be applied to the wound to stop bacteria from entering.”

Winemaker Monika Roki Radiši also addressed those present. “There is a very clear decline in viticulture. This was one of the main reasons why I wanted us to awaken the island and the people, to start meeting and solving shared problems.” The educational and professional part of the event concluded with the theme “Bugava 365 – A Year-Round Experience of the Destination”, focusing on the role of this indigenous variety in the tourist offer of Vis and the connection between geological features and the authenticity of the island’s wine landscape. The speakers were the Director of the Tourist Board of the Town of Vis, Fani Atanasovski Drame, and the Executive Director of the UNESCO Global Geopark Vis Archipelago, Lana Schmidt. “The UNESCO Global Geopark Vis Archipelago is one of three in Croatia. It covers the entire island of Vis with its surrounding islets and preserves exceptional geological diversity, from rocks older than 220 million years to unique phenomena such as diapirs and volcanic formations. This is crucial for winemakers because geology shapes the soil, and the soil shapes the wine. When we connect Vis wines with this geological narrative, we gain what a geopark provides: credibility, authenticity and an internationally recognisable identity,” emphasised Lana Schmidt.

“Vugava is more than a label; it is the story of Vis that can be experienced every month of the year — in the vineyard, in the cellar, in restaurants and on family farms. Vugava is indigenous and still insufficiently told. It cannot be experienced in Split or Tuscany — only here does its past truly exist. The project offers winemakers greater media visibility, a clear narrative about the character of their wines and new market opportunities; while for the tourist boards it provides a clear identity of the destination throughout all 12 months, with programmes aligned with the phases of the vine itself. This is an offer that enriches the pre-season and post-season and guides visitors beyond the town centres — towards the vineyards and villages,” said Fani Atanasovski Drame.

The project “Wine Trails of the Island of Vis” brings together winemakers, preparing a map of the wine route and QR points; educational activities and joint promotion are planned, with emphasis on indigenous varieties and local gastronomy. The aim is a stronger destination identity, greater visibility and an extended tourist season, while preserving the landscape and heritage.

Photos: Tourist Board of the Town of Vis / Photographer: Ivan Šejić