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Francišković - the highest cheese manufactory in Croatia

Before we got to the cheeses, we had to get to Begovo Razdolje – a place that already has a special story in itself. Located at around 1078 meters above sea level, Begovo Razdolje is the highest populated place in Croatia. Surrounded by forests, mountain pastures and fresh Gorski Kotar air, this small village has only about twenty inhabitants, but it is precisely this isolation and harsh conditions that have shaped the way of life of its people. People still live here in the rhythm of nature, and cattle breeding is not only a tradition but also an everyday life that requires a lot of work, perseverance and love.

This is where Sirana Francišković, one of the few cheese factories in Gorski Kotar, is located. As we are greeted by cows grazing carefree in the nearby pastures, it becomes clear that nothing here is accidental – every product begins precisely in these meadows. The story of the Francišković family is actually a continuation of the old Gorski Kotar tradition. Begovo Razdolje has always been a cattle breeding place, so almost every household once had at least one cow, sheep or goat. Marica and Zvonko began raising cattle in the family in the early 1990s, and over time it became logical to round out milk production with its processing.

"We have been seriously involved in cheesemaking for about ten years now," Biljana Francišković, who takes care of the cows and cheese with her husband Bojan and children David and Ema, tells us, adding that there is no shortage of buyers. The problem, as in many rural areas of Croatia, is something completely different – ​​people.

- There are buyers and we are happy with that. The biggest problem is the workforce. There are about twenty, twenty-five of us in the village, all of whom are either working or retired. There is simply no one to work.

Life with cows knows no weekends or holidays. It is a job that lasts every day, morning and evening. During the warmer part of the year, the cows spend as much time as possible on pastures, and they return to the barn only when the weather no longer allows them to stay outdoors.

- A cow is an animal that requires attention every day. While they are grazing, we have a short break from each other, but as soon as they return, the work starts again.

Today, they have about 70 animals on the farm, including dairy cows, heifers and calves. This is a number that the family can properly care for and maintain without compromising on animal welfare. We reached the pasture with a leisurely walk in the company of two calm and good-natured tornjaks, faithful guardians of the herd who followed us almost every step of the way. The vast green meadows, dotted with mountain flowers and surrounded by dense Gorski kotar forests, presented a scene that seems almost unreal.

At more than a thousand meters above sea level, the air is fresh, the silence is only broken by the sound of bells from grazing cows, and the view stretches over the rolling hills all the way to the forested slopes. It is on these pastures, in the almost untouched nature of Begova Razdolje, that the milk from which the Francišković family produces its cheeses is produced – and after just a few steps it becomes clear how much the landscape in which the animals graze contributes to the quality of everything that later ends up on the table.

When asked if it is difficult to do this job in the highest populated place in Croatia, the answer comes without thinking.

– It is difficult, but we are also proud of that difficulty. If it were not so, we would have given up long ago. Everything in the cheese factory is produced exclusively from our own milk, without purchasing raw materials from other farms. This is precisely what gives each product its recognizable character and full flavor.

The most famous is, of course, Škripavac, a fresh young cheese for which Gorski Kotar is widely known. There is also curd, made from whey, rich in proteins and a favorite among those looking for a light and nutritionally valuable food.

Their fresh cheese with cream is especially interesting. The cream is not separated from the milk, so the cheese remains naturally creamy, without any added salt, sugar or other ingredients.

For lovers of more intense flavors, there is mountain cheese, which matures for at least three months and develops a full aroma, while semi-hard cheese is slightly younger, milder and more delicate in taste. The offer is rounded out by homemade fruit yogurts, also made from milk from their own cows.

In a time when there is increasing talk of short supply chains and food of known origin, Sirana Francišković shows the value of a simple philosophy – healthy animals, quality pastures and milk that travels only a few meters from farm to cheese factory.

Perhaps that is why every bite here is so authentic. In Begovo Razdolje, on the roof of Croatia, cheese is not just a product. It is a story about family, perseverance and a life that, despite all the challenges, still takes place in harmony with nature.

Sirana Francišković

095/5999-598

Begovo Razdolje 13/D, Mrkopalj

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