Labin Terroir of Lari Juričić

In 2008, Lari Juričić and his family decided to prepare predominantly rocky land with brown soil in the village of Bartići, near Labin. They cleared the terrain, mulched it, and planted their first vines: half a hectare of Malvasia and the same amount of Teran. Today, with new plantings, they cultivate around 3.5 hectares (6,000 Malvasia vines, about 4,000 Teran, 3,000 Merlot, 2,000 Chardonnay, and some Muscat Blanc). We learned that they plan to plant an additional two hectares in Brežak, mainly with Teran and Malvasia. This area belongs to the eastern Istrian wine region, stretching from the slopes of Učka in the north to the Raša Channel in the south. It is the smallest of the three Istrian wine regions, covering around 100 hectares.

At a workshop held at HKD Napredak on 24 February, we repeatedly emphasised the distinctive influence of the soil, particularly the pronounced minerality in the wines. One vineyard lies at approximately 400 metres above sea level, where, in addition to soil characteristics, excellent air circulation significantly reduces the need for treatments during the growing season, according to the winemaker. Juričić completed vocational secondary school in Labin and later graduated in Viticulture and Oenology in Poreč, meaning that all the wines we tasted represent his personal expression—from vineyard to bottle. He favours a classic style of Malvasia, which was evident in the fresh 2024 vintage, while the barrique-aged 2020 clearly confirms his commitment to authentic terroir-driven wine.

Near the vineyards, the Juričić family have a cellar and an indoor tasting room accommodating up to 60 guests, as well as an additional 40 seats on the terrace. In the same year, 2008, they planted around one hectare of olive groves and lavender fields. The estate is also available for weddings under marquees and other events, including team-building gatherings. They are satisfied with their market presence: around 70% of their wine is sold directly at the estate, while the rest is distributed to restaurants in Istria, Lošinj, Rijeka, and more recently exported to Germany. Their range includes Iris sparkling wine (Malvasia), fresh and barrique-aged Malvasia, Chardonnay, Muscat Blanc, Teran, Merlot, and the cuvée Crno zloto.

Of the eight wines tasted, I will highlight four in more detail:

The Iris sparkling wine from 2022 (12% alcohol, 7 g/L residual sugar) is produced using the traditional method with secondary fermentation in the bottle. The base wine is Malvasia harvested in early August, with high acidity (over 7 g/L) and well-preserved aromas. Golden yellow in colour, with fine bubbles, it shows noticeable but well-integrated sweetness. The 2021 vintage of Iris won a gold medal at the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles in 2023, ranking as the highest-rated Croatian sparkling wine among nearly a hundred entries. Gastronomically, it pairs well not only as an aperitif but also with fish carpaccio, oysters, and cheeses. The 2023 vintage has already spent 18 months in bottle and will be released mid-year.

St. Barbara White Selection 2020 (13.5% alcohol) underwent 48 hours of maceration, with grapes harvested later than for fresh Malvasia. The wine completed malolactic fermentation in traditional French oak barrels over 12 months. It is rich, structured, and powerful, with high alcohol that remains well balanced. Its pronounced minerality reflects the terroir. Still in excellent condition as it enters its sixth year, it pairs beautifully with porcini risotto, tuna tartare, grilled oily fish, roast pork, and turkey. Among all the wines, this one left the deepest impression on me.

Before the third wine, it is worth noting that the name St. Barbara refers to the patron saint of miners—a tribute to the mining heritage of the Labin area, particularly Raša. Similarly, Crno zloto (“Black Gold”) draws on local dialect and refers to coal once mined in the region. These wines, along with their labels, were created to mark the centenary of the Labin Republic (1921–2021).

Teran 2023 (12% alcohol) was macerated for 8–12 days. Dry, with intense aromas of forest fruits (raspberry, blackberry) and floral notes of violet, it displays a deep ruby-red colour, rounded tannins, and a mineral, slightly saline freshness. Produced in stainless steel without oak ageing, it matured for a year in bottle. Balanced and harmonious, it pairs well with pork neck, grilled meats, game, and Istrian prosciutto. Teran is an indigenous Istrian variety with a distinctive profile that may not appeal to everyone, but according to the winemaker, visitors enjoy it greatly.

Crno zloto 2020 (13.5% alcohol) is an Istrian blend (50% Teran, 30% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon). Fresh, elegant, and approachable, it spent 12 months in barrique followed by additional bottle ageing. As Franjo Francem noted: “Crno zloto surprises from the first impression. It is fresh yet powerful, with rounded tannins—an elegant wine. It brings together two elements beautifully: the terroir, with its minerality, and the winemaker’s philosophy of crafting authentic wine.”

Finally, Juričić presented his olive oils: a selection of extra virgin blends (Leccino, Pendolino, Istrian Belica, and Buža), which won gold at Noćnjak 2025, along with infused oils. Three years ago, they introduced olive oil with chilli, and more recently expanded to include oils infused with dehydrated lemon, orange, rosemary, and white truffle. He also offered barrique-aged wine vinegar (five years in wood) and, in collaboration with the Forto family farm, spicy sauces made from Teran and Muscat. Absolutely delicious.

I sincerely hope—and believe—that this still relatively young, middle-aged winemaker will remain faithful to his philosophy. He is unquestionably on the right path.