Stadtgasthaus am Nyikospark: Tradition and Innovation in Neusiedl am See

The building that today houses Das Stadtgasthaus am Nyikospark has a long and colourful history. Originally built as the officers’ mess (Offizierskasino) for the Neusiedl am See barracks during the Austro-Hungarian period under Emperor Franz Joseph, it later underwent numerous changes in ownership, name, and function. For decades, it was known as Da Capo am Nyikospark before undergoing a careful renovation and relaunch in 2022. Reopened on October 26 of that year under its present name, the Stadtgasthaus combines preserved historic character with modern touches such as a bright winter garden and a walnut-shaded outdoor guest garden. Under the leadership of Fritz Tösch and his family, with Chef Martin Wresnig at the stove, the restaurant has become a showcase of Burgenland’s culinary heritage, blending hearty gutbürgerliche Küche with lighter fish specialties, always grounded in seasonal and local ingredients.

Guests praise this balance of the familiar and the refined. From crispy schnitzels and roasts to delicate freshwater fish from Lake Neusiedl, the menu reflects Burgenland’s agricultural and fishing traditions while adding a contemporary twist. We began our meal with deep-fried mushrooms, a local classic that carries with it the tradition of mushroom picking in the oak and beech groves of the Leitha Mountains and meadows around Neusiedlersee.

These mushrooms, often breaded in golden crumbs and served with a tangy dip or potato salad, are a local favorite that highlights both the simplicity and the comfort of regional cooking. In Austria, especially in Burgenland, mushroom dishes are celebrated as seasonal delicacies, evoking the late summer and autumn months when the forests and meadows around Lake Neusiedl yield an abundance of edible varieties. The crisp, earthy flavour of freshly picked mushrooms pairs beautifully with the light, crunchy texture of the frying, making this appetizer nostalgic and refined.

The tradition of mushroom picking around Neusiedlersee and Burgenland runs deep. Families often head into the nearby Leitha Mountains, oak and beech groves, or the Pannonian meadows to forage for porcini, chanterelles, and parasol mushrooms, which thrive in the region’s varied microclimates. This practice says a lot about connection to nature: children learn from elders how to recognise edible species, local markets bustle with fresh finds, and seasonal mushroom festivals celebrate the harvest. The activity reflects the area’s balance between Central European and Pannonian influences, where the abundance of land and lake has long shaped both subsistence and culinary culture.

Starter was followed by sautéed calf’s liver in onion sauce with potato purée (sautierte Kalbsleber in Zwiebelsauce und Erdäpfelpüree), a dish that speaks to the region’s farmhouse roots and the enduring respect for every part of the animal. Calf’s liver is prized for its tender texture and delicate flavour, and when gently sautéed, it retains both succulence and richness. The sweet, slow-cooked onion sauce creates a caramelised depth that balances the liver’s intensity, while the smooth, buttery potato purée provides a comforting base, tying the dish together in a harmony of textures. At Stadtgasthaus am Nyikospark, this classic is prepared with a respect for tradition but also with a lightness of touch that keeps it elegant rather than heavy.

In Burgenland and throughout eastern Austria, liver dishes like this one carry a long tradition as farmhouse fare elevated to restaurant classics. Historically, offal was valued as much as prime cuts, and dishes like calf’s liver with onions became staples in family kitchens and Viennese taverns. Today, ordering Kalbsleber at a respected inn like the Nyikospark is also a nod to this heritage—a taste of continuity between rustic origins and refined dining culture.

Next came pan-fried beef dumplings made from King Beef (gebratene Rindfleischtascherl vom King Beef), served with a chanterelle ragout and Grana cheese, a perfect marriage of rustic Burgenland comfort and subtle Italian influence. The dumplings, made from premium “King Beef,” are a luxurious take on a much-loved Austrian comfort food, where pockets of tender, seasoned meat are enclosed in delicate dough and crisped to perfection. Paired with the earthy, nutty flavours of Eierschwammerl (chanterelles)—a mushroom that signals the height of summer and early autumn in Burgenland—the dish gains both depth and a seasonal touch. The finishing sprinkle of Grana cheese adds a savoury, Italian-influenced sharpness, bringing an international refinement to a deeply regional plate.

To close the meal, the Zwetschkenknödel (plum dumplings) brought in one of the most nostalgic and beloved desserts of Burgenland and the wider Austro-Hungarian culinary world. These soft dumplings, traditionally made from a potato or quark dough, enclose sweet-tart plums that burst with juice once cooked. At the Stadtgasthaus am Nyikospark, they are prepared in the classic style: rolled in buttery, golden-brown breadcrumbs and lightly dusted with sugar and cinnamon. The result is a dessert that balances comfort and elegance, with the dumpling’s delicate dough yielding to the rich, fruity core. Served warm, it evokes the rhythm of the seasons, when late-summer and early-autumn plums reach their peak.

Fish also holds pride of place here, with specialties such as pike-perch, carp, and catfish prepared in a lighter style that honors both the heritage of Lake Neusiedl and Catholic traditions of Friday and Lenten meals. The wine list, meanwhile, is a journey through Burgenland’s vineyards. Predominantly Austrian, it features fresh whites like Grüner Veltliner and Gelber Muskateller, alongside lighter reds and seasonal pairings that celebrate the region’s climate and soil. Curated wine dinners and seasonal menus further highlight local vintners, making every meal a true taste of Neusiedl am See’s cultural landscape.

At Das Stadtgasthaus am Nyikospark, one finds a living expression of Burgenland’s history, landscape, and hospitality—where tradition meets innovation at the table.

Stadtgasthaus am Nyikospark

Untere Hauptstraße 59

7100 Neusiedl am See

T: +43 (0)2167 / 8542

https://nyikospark.at/