Vesna Loborika: Flavours of Istria in Cheese and Oil

In Loborika, a small place near Pula, a family business has grown into a true Istrian story of perseverance, love, and taste. Vesna Loborika, today the most awarded Istrian cheese factory, started modestly, with a single goat that Vesna, the founder of the family business, gave to her daughter Fuma back in 1985. What began as young goat cheese sold door-to-door gradually grew into a rich assortment of cheeses and dairy products, olive oils, and, eventually, a restaurant that attracts guests from all over the world.

“A way of life” – these are the words that Vesna’s daughter Fuma Grubešić uses to explain their family’s success most simply. It is not a nine-to-five job, but a rhythm determined by the animals, the fields and the season. From an early age, after school and obligations, the children would go to the stable or to pasture, and later to the Pula market, where Fuma and her mother stood for more than 30 years. “It is the only thing I know,” she admits, adding that once you enter that circle, there is no way out.

The dairy is today renowned for four signature cheeses: Pegula, Rici, Karig ,and Tuffo. Pegula, a blend of goat’s, sheep’,s and cow’s milk, became a symbol of chance – her brother made a mistake in the proportions and, instead of the usual cheese, a new, unplanned product was born. That “mishap” turned out to be a blessing: Pegula won second place at a prestigious world cheese competition in Wisconsin. Rici, named after the nickname of their great-grandfather who came to Loborika and set this enterprising family in motion, is the family’s most awarded cheese and a source of pride carrying equal emotional as well as culinary value.

The cheeses of Vesna Loborika are not only a story of flavour but also of identity. Each international award, from Wisconsin to Portugal, confirms that the blend of tradition and innovation is the best recipe. Karig is a cheese matured for more than two years, its grainy texture concealing layers of aroma, while Tuffo carries within it Istria’s most recognisable duo – truffles and cheese. During tastings, guests are often surprised by the pairing with honey and curd, a simple yet innovative interpretation of Mediterranean culinary heritage.

Beyond cheese, the family has also devoted itself to olive growing. Brother Tone, an agronomist by profession, fell in love with olives during his university years and decided to expand the family venture. Today, they cultivate more than 1,300 trees and produce the extra virgin olive oil “Ča”, which has won awards from Italy to Greece. By moving the harvest to early October, they achieved an oil rich in antioxidants and freshness, making it the perfect companion to their cheeses.

Their motto, “Fameja za bankon” – the family at the table – best captures the spirit of Loborika. Every family member is involved in the daily work, each contributing in their own way. Even the sister, not engaged in production, plays her part, taking on the paperwork. This family cohesion is evident at every turn, and when a guest sits at their table, they are in fact joining the table of the whole family. The restaurant, opened in 2006, was a natural continuation of the story. At first, it offered only cold platters, but today guests can choose from homemade pasta, risotto, salads, pizzas, and – most intriguingly – burgers with their own cheese and truffles. Everything is prepared using their products, so a visit is not merely a meal but a journey through family history and local tradition. Loborika is a place where tradition is not preserved only in books and archives but on the plate itself – as we discovered while enjoying desserts crafted from their very own produce.

Much of Vesna Loborika’s philosophy is built on a connected economy. “If a community is to function, you cannot go through five different towns,” stresses Fuma, highlighting the importance of working with local partners. The milk comes from family farms within a 30-kilometre radius, and the same applies to goats and cows. This sustains a model of sustainable production and short supply chains, benefiting both producers and customers alike.

Today, when the name Vesna Loborika is spoken on world stages, from the Wisconsin Cheese Contest to the Flos Olei guide, what remains in Loborika is what has always been there: family, togetherness, and dedication. Pegula may have been created by accident, but in this story nothing else is left to chance – every cheese, every drop of oil, and every dish in the restaurant is the fruit of decades of work, love, and tradition. Guests, both local and international, leave Loborika with a taste of Istria that lingers long after the final bite.

Vesna Loborika

Loborika 31, 52206, Marčana

prodaja@vesna.hr

+385 91 338 6902

https://vesna.hr/