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Burnum Winery: History, stone and wine in the heart of the Dalmatian karst

Somewhere between the Knin region and forgotten Roman roads, on the rugged soil that remembers the footsteps of legionnaires and the scents of Dalmatian herbs, lies the Burnum winery – not just a winery, but a symbol of resistance to oblivion, a sign of survival and perseverance, woven into every vine, almond and drop of wine they create. On this harsh but noble soil, the story of modern Dalmatian oenology with the soul of bygone times was born.

When you arrive at this winery, located in Vrbnik, not far from Knin, you will be greeted by an unusual silence. There is no commercial noise - only stone, air, and views that reach far towards the highest mountains in Croatia. And in that landscape, wines are created that are not created for quick consumption, but for thinking. Wines that ask to be listened to.



Burnum is not ashamed of its Roman roots – the winery’s name comes from the ancient military camp Burnum, the remains of which lie a few kilometers away. “We wanted a name that wouldn’t offend anyone, but would remind us of who we are and where we are,” says our interviewee, winery manager Anđelka Amanović Milinović.



But Burnum is not just symbolic – this winery produces organic wines from start to finish. The owners have planted six hectares of vineyards and eight hectares of almond trees below the eastern slopes of Promina, all cultivated by hand and without chemicals. The grapes grow in stone, in soil that barely remembers water, but produces clusters saturated with the flavours and aromas of the soil. “It is a soil that must be felt, not explained,” says Anđelka. “When I planted 3,000 vines and the same number of almond trees, I did not believe that all of this would come to life. But now when I stop and look at the vineyard, I feel pride. It is difficult, but worth it.”

The winery offers three cuvees of wine – white, red and sparkling wine from Babić. The white consists of Chardonnay, Vionier, Pošip and Maraština, while the red combines Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Marcellin. The combination may sound unusual, but everything was carefully planned from the planting in collaboration with experts from the Slovenian Goriška Brda. “They knew exactly which varieties, how they would react, how they would go together. And they got it right.”

Burnum sparkling wine is a light salmon pink with fine bubbles and a persistent and rich perlage. On the nose, a multitude of aromas of citrus, cherries, nectarines, red apples, ripe pears and yellow plums. A dry sparkling wine of mild freshness with extremely pleasant bubbles that spread rich flavors of yellow fruits on the palate - apple, citrus, lemon zest, melon. Smooth, elegant, harmonious and long-lasting. Dominant characteristics: fruitiness and freshness.

Along with the wines, we taste excellent cheese and prosciutto from the Knin-Bukovica region. The white cuvee is a crystal wine the color of yellow, ripe lemon. Rich aromas of citrus, grapefruit, Spanish Ringlo plum, yellow apple, pear and Mediterranean yellow herbs overwhelm the senses. The wine is dry, with pronounced minerality and freshness. In the mouth, dry Mediterranean herbs, local yellow fruit, but also grapefruit, pineapple, vanilla and light caramel. A rich wine, medium-full body in which fruitiness, freshness and alcohol are combined in perfect balance. Long lasting, on the palate a fruity "aftertaste" with a little pleasant bitterness of grapefruit. A wine that will satisfy all tastes.

Red cuvee is a rich, dense wine with a deep ruby ​​red color. A wonderful array of aromas on the nose: overripe blueberry, sour cherry, ripe blackberry, prunes, licorice, sour cherry in dark chocolate, vanilla, caramel, leather notes and pepper. A dry wine with a full body and ripe and finely rounded tannins. Excellent balance of alcohol and freshness. In the mouth, an explosion of aromas of dark berries, followed by tertiary notes of licorice, vanilla and chocolate. The wine is characterized by richness, seduction and harmony. Long duration with distinct freshness, soft tannins and ripe fruitiness. A wine in which the human factor, a thousand-year-old tradition and the wonderful nature of the Knin region come together in a unique way.

In addition to wine, Burnum is expanding into wine tourism. They recently opened seven rooms, with a total of 13 beds, offering guests the opportunity to sleep among the vineyards. There are also plans for a breakfast and lunch area, as well as a small restaurant with local specialties. "We have a complete story - you come, taste the wine, sleep, have breakfast, walk through the vineyards." But not everything is a fairy tale. The winery is struggling with a labor problem - there are almost no local residents. People are going to the seaside, agriculture is still a "shameful" job. "Everyone likes to drink, but few want to work the land. And even fewer understand that this kind of wine is more expensive because it requires much more work and respect."

Still, Burnum is not giving up. It has also obtained a HACCP certificate, and wines are already being exported and ordered from cruise ships in Šibenik. "The problem is that we are far away - agencies don't know what to do with us. They say, you need an hour and a half to get to the coast. And what should we do with tourists in Knin?" But things are changing here too. More and more tourists are looking for something else - something that is not a beach, but is authentic. And indeed, what is more authentic than a place where you can sleep among almond trees, drink sparkling wine from Babić and hear about Roman coins found in a vineyard?

Burnum is a space between the past and the future, a place that transcends labels and market trends. A place where wine is not just a drink, but a narrative – about stone, work, sacrifice and hope. If your path ever takes you through Knin, don’t go straight. Turn around. Ask for Burnum. You might get lost along the way – but you’ll find more than you were looking for.

PZ Vrbničko selo, Vukadini 3, 22300 Knin

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