Fortress of taste: the experience of Knin gastronomy

Located within the monumental walls of the Knin Fortress, the Tvrđava restaurant is the life story, culinary manifesto, and vision of Josip Zora. After wandering around in seasonal jobs, guest worker episodes in Germany, and attempts at forestry, he returned to his calling with incredible passion.

"I knew as a child that I would be a chef," begins the owner, whose culinary beginnings are connected to a competition in Italy in 2007, where he created a dessert inspired by Dalmatia - a sponge cake with almonds, carobs, dried figs, and maraschino, called Okus Dalmacije (The Taste of Dalmatia). Today, this dessert is also available on the menu of the Tvrđava restaurant, while the story of its creation circulates like an urban myth. However, the path to opening a restaurant was not a smooth one. After returning from Germany, he tried his hand at the forestry business, but as he says, "God put me back on the right path." His best man sent him a tender for a restaurant concession at the Knin fortress - although skeptical, he applied. When the call came, his life changed overnight. "Now I cook for my family, the community, and the city I come from." Josip lives in his village of Matasi near Oklaj, where he and his wife are raising four children, of whom, let's hope, at least one will continue this incredible story of Knin gastronomy.

The meal began with a superb herbal brandy, different from the Šibenik brandy, which can be harsh and overpowering. This one had strength, but also exceptional finesse; greenish-yellow in colour, aromatic, and perfectly balanced. It was accompanied by a board of cheese from Pakovo Selo – a mixed cheese made from sheep’s and cow’s milk, mild in flavour. It was served on toasted bread with rosemary, which also grows abundantly on the slopes of the Knin fortress; the bread was just right – crispy, toasted, but not too dry, spread with oil, but not at all soggy. Everything was rounded off with black olives with a rich, salty flavour—an overture to remember.

The restaurant's cuisine is characterized by a blend of local tradition and a modern approach. "We didn't want to be just another tavern," says the owner. And indeed, the dishes are authentic, but thoughtful. Main courses range from Dalmatian pašticada to stuffed pork loin with potatoes and spring onions. One of the house specialties is trout in a casserole dish that takes you back to your childhood, when your mother would bake fish in a casserole dish covered in foil. "That dish is a bit complicated, but I didn't let it go – it had to stay," claims the chef.

The trout we tasted at the Tvrđava restaurant was grilled – a simple but perfectly executed dish that fully highlights the quality of the fish itself. It comes from a fish farm on the Krka River, known for its spotless water and natural growing conditions, which gives this trout a specific, fresh, and full flavour. It was grilled until golden and crispy on the outside, while the meat inside remained juicy, soft, and fragrant. Served with Swiss chard and potatoes, this trout is an authentic example of a Dalmatian fish plate that respects tradition and satisfies modern palates simultaneously.

Knin is rightly nicknamed the "city of seven rivers", as the Krka, Krčić, Kosovčica, Orašnica, Butižnica, Radljevac, and Marčinkovac rivers flow through or near the city. These rivers shape the scenic beauty of the Knin valley and have nourished life for centuries, both symbolically and literally. Their clean, cold waters have enabled the development of fish farms, among which the one on the Krka River stands out, known for its top-quality trout. In Knin, rivers are not only a natural resource, but also a deeply rooted part of identity and everyday life, which is also felt on the plates of local restaurants such as Tvrđava.

The food in Tvrđava, meaning Fortress, is sourced locally as much as possible—cheese from Kistanje, trout from the Viribus fish farm, meat from the Krin butcher shop Krčić. "The prosciutto has to be matured for at least two and a half years. Last year, I threw away 38 pieces because they didn't meet the standard. I don't like industrial prosciutto," adds Josip. In addition to the restaurant, the owner has also taken over a souvenir shop and wine shop inside the Knin fortress, with exclusively local products and wines from the Šibenik-Knin County.

At Tvrđava, pasta is made by hand, on site, and served in three variations – homemade carbonara, with cheese from a lambskin sack, and napolitana. Carbonara is prepared almost according to the original recipe, but instead of pecorino, hard, hand-grated homemade cheese is used; these are top-quality sheep's cheeses from the Stone cheese factory near Kistanje, matured for 6 to 12 months, which give the dishes a special depth of flavour. Napolitana is offered as a simpler variant, often a favourite among children. In season, the offer may also include a steak of Adriatic fish, for which the restaurant has a first-choice permit directly from the trawler – but this is a summer delicacy. At the same time, guests most often choose homemade pasta during the year.

For the main course, we tried grilled lamb, a good departure from Dalmatia's otherwise traditional meat shrine, lamb on the spit. Prepared from home-grown lamb from the Knin region, carefully selected and fresh, it is roasted on an open grill until perfectly juicy, with a crispy crust that releases the rich aromas of meat and smoke. Served with polenta and rosemary, this dish combines simplicity and elegance, bringing an authentic Dalmatian atmosphere to the plate with an emphasis on local authenticity. The lamb is tender but also full of character, just as befits the main course of a fortress.

The menu also features an excellent selection of grilled meats – including ribeye steak, tomahawk, and rump steak. The rump steak is served with fried potatoes and fried onions, or without a side dish if desired. Tomahawk is an impressive piece of meat, often intended for two, and although it is demanding to prepare, it is also a popular choice for individual guests. Beefsteak is not aged for long because it is already soft, but carpaccio is made from slightly dried, dry-aged meat, aged in the refrigerator with spices for about seven days, then frozen and cut into fine pieces.

In addition to beef, the restaurant also offers grilled lamb and chicken from a collaboration with a large local producer between Šibenik and Split, which comes in several varieties, including chicken breast prepared in six different ways. Be sure not to neglect the sweet side of the story. We enjoyed a great cheesecake, but if you find Taste of Dalmatia, it is a real treat!

The view from the restaurant's terrace is breathtaking – it stretches across the entire city of Knin, all the way to the slopes of Dinara, creating the impression that you are on the roof of Dalmatia. However, just as nature can be magnificent, it can also be capricious – the bora wind that occasionally blows down from the mountains can cool down even the brightest day, so it's good to know that you can take refuge in the warm, cozy interior of the restaurant. The atmosphere inside remains just as welcoming, thanks to the friendly and cordial staff, who are almost entirely made up of locals, which gives the restaurant an exceptional warmth and sense of community. This feeling is visible at every turn, as the restaurant seats as many as 160 people!

Restaurant Tvrđava is a manifesto of returning to one's roots, proof that gastronomy can be a social project, an entrepreneurial story, and a space of love for one's homeland. If your journey takes you to Knin, don't skip this fortress of taste, because here every bite has a story.

Restoran Tvrđava

Marunova ulica 1, 22300 Knin

095 514 1274

https://qr-cjenik.com.hr/restoran-tvrdava/