Gregorits Inn – the Heart of Burgenland Cuisine

On the very border of Austria and Hungary, in the village of Klimpuh, lies Gregorits Inn – the gastronomic temple of the Gregorić family. Housed in a historic building that has witnessed many fortunes and misfortunes, it now serves local culinary delights rooted in Austrian tradition, yet always enriched with a Croatian touch.

Klimpuh (German: Klingenbach), a small Burgenland village on the Austrian-Hungarian frontier, is one of the centres of the Croatian community in Burgenland. It is known for preserving its language, songs, and customs, with village life revolving largely around its inns, cultural societies, and church. Festivals are held regularly, from traditional weddings and folk evenings to wine festivals and local fairs, always accompanied by the tamburica and the Croatian language. Klimpuh is an example of a community that, despite historical migrations and political changes, has managed to maintain its own identity.

From the very start, we sampled krpice sa zeljem – a classic Central European dish. Here it is served savoury, with added meat and thinly sliced pickled cucumbers. Yet, as our host explains, for many Austrians the classic version is actually sweet krpice sa zeljem, served with apple or peach compote – leftover lunch transformed into dessert. This dish opens a window onto the dietary habits of the region: families lived off the produce of the land – maize, potatoes, beans, cabbage – while meat was a luxury appearing at the table only once or twice a week. Today, the inn revives these recipes, with favourites including žganci (roasted flour porridge), beans, soups, and simple salads.

Gregorits Inn is a place of living history. For more than fifty years, it has welcomed travellers and locals alike. It was once a tavern and butcher’s shop on the road to Sopron, where the horses of the imperial post were changed. Paul Gregorits’ father bought the house in 1924, marking the beginning of a new family chapter. By the 1960s, it operated as a butcher’s and small tavern, and in 1964 the development of a modern kitchen began. Today, Paul, together with his wife Andrea, has, since 1995, built a recognised gastronomic brand that combines an Austrian culinary base with Croatian roots. Their daughter Johanna is already preparing to continue the tradition, as Paul emphasises that communication between generations is the foundation of shared life and work – both in the inn and in the village of Klimpuh.

Klimpuh and the surrounding area also carry a broader historical dimension. Soon, the 500th anniversary of the arrival of the Burgenland Croats will be celebrated, marking when they settled this region following Ottoman incursions. The Emperor invited the Croats, as loyal subjects, to populate the then desolate Burgenland and defend Vienna from future attacks. These settlers became farmers, and their culture left a lasting mark on the region’s identity. “We are like Tuscany,” says Paul, “we have a lake, hills, and fertile soil.” He knows what he says, as one of his daughters is a winemaker!

Today, traditional Croatian weddings are held at Gregorits, beginning with a morning beef goulash, followed by Mass and a feast accompanied by tamburica music, continuing into the night. The daily menu emphasises Burgenland traditions: Leberknödelsuppe, Tafelspitz, Wiener Schnitzel, and game specialities. Autumn brings the Martinigansl season, while lamb dishes are available throughout the year. Popular offerings also include Sektfrühstück for weddings, picnic baskets for summer outings, wine tasting menus, and catering services.

Yet Gregorits also preserves the authenticity of Croatian roots. Every nearby village has its own unique dish that no one else makes. In Peingert, they prepare frežonove fenke – dumplings made from white beans; in Cidrofa, presnjaki – potato and egg cakes baked in lard, similar to Swiss rösti. In Klimpuh, they make frižolove žgance: flour is slowly roasted until brown, seasoned, and poured over with melted lard. Served with soup and beans, it is a simple yet hearty dish that once fed the peasants.

A special festival was the Sautanz, or pig slaughter. Families slaughtered pigs together, preparing liver, sausages, and cracklings immediately. Fatty parts were mixed with potatoes, onions, and garlic, baked in the oven, forming the main meal of the day. Many also kept goats – the “poor man’s cows” – for milk and cream, while kids were sold as a delicacy in Vienna.

Our gastronomic experience at Gregorits concluded with venison with cranberries, a perfect blend of rustic tradition and refined elegance. In Burgenland’s culinary tradition, game holds a prominent place, reflecting the historical connection between humans and nature in this region. Hunting and preparing meat such as venison, roe, pheasant, or hare was essential, especially in the colder months when seasonal produce was insufficient. Game dishes are prepared simply, with an emphasis on preserving the natural flavour of the meat, often enhanced by local spices, pickled sauces, and seasonal vegetables. This tradition is not merely culinary but also cultural – game represents respect for nature, sustainability, and the continuity of local customs, all of which are preserved today in restaurants like Gregorits, where hunting specialities link past and present enjoyment at the table.

In this blend of past and present, Austrian and Croatian, local and international, lies the true spirit of Gregorits Inn: a place where the table becomes a bridge between cultures, and every bite a reminder of the deep-rooted history and hospitality of Burgenland.

Gasthof - Catering Gregorits

Ödenburgerstraße 8

7013 Klingenbach +43 2687 481 38

info@gasthof-gregorits.at

https://www.gasthof-gregorits.at/