Ploče - the admirable ugliest town in Croatia

In the morning you wake up to the smell of pancakes, walk through green parks, along the longest waterfront in Dalmatia for a coffee, and then, while enjoying the rhythm of the city that never sleeps, you think about where you will spend the day - on the beach, on one of the Baćina lakes or at the mouth of the Neretva River, which offers a wealth of experiences. This is the simplest way to describe Ploče, a Dalmatian town and port that the British Telegraph described as the ugliest town in Croatia and one of the ugliest coastal towns in Europe. Along with Ploče, Monaco was also on that list, which is, at first, a kind of consolation, knowing that Monaco, regardless of this title, attracts several million tourists to its city every year. What is the situation when it comes to Ploče?

Ploče, or as the locals call it Ploča, has been described throughout history as a very important port, and was first mentioned in 1387 as a port through which livestock from the hinterland would be transported by ship to Ancona. It also proved to be a significant port (today the second port in Croatia) during World War II, when the Germans and Italians built it (as much as 410 meters of coastline, a thermal power plant and a crane) and then demolished most of it after their withdrawal.

Since the location of Ploče is unique in many ways, the reconstruction of the port began after World War II, which resulted in the immigration of workers who mostly lived in barracks. The workers had fun on the nearby landscaped bowling alley, played briškula and trešeta and drank their favorite Šijavica. Due to the difficult living conditions, they also received compensation for "waste" in addition to their regular salary, and Ploče changed its name after the father of the Yugoslav system of workers' self-management, Edvard Kardelj.

Ploče was called Kardeljevo from 1950 to 1954, and then again after his death from 1980 to 1990. All of this today shapes the appearance of this city. Industrial charm of the 20th century with a few modern elements but also a natural backdrop that is unique in this part of Europe. According to the 2021 census, the population was 8,220, of which 4,711 were in the city itself.

Imagine that within a radius of ten kilometers from the center of Ploče there are mountains, as many as seven Baćina Lakes interconnected into an irresistible oasis for kayaking or a traditional Neretva boat, for birdwatching, fishing... As a very important strategic port, Ploče offers sea lovers special coves and wonderful beaches for swimming. If you test the amount of salt, you will notice that in some places the water is less salty, which is thanks to the Neretva.

In its elegance and beauty, the river flows into the sea in Ploče after its final 20 kilometers, as it traverses Croatia. The combination of sea and river also creates an irresistible backdrop - Neretva boats still sail along the river's branches today, passing by the fertile soil on which citrus fruits grow. Mandarins are in abundance, and their blossoms in the spring turn Ploče into a treasure trove of intoxicating fragrance, while at the end of autumn, they transform the green areas into orange fields.

The tangerine harvest is one of the tourist products of this region, as well as the Neretva estuary itself (for years it has been called the most photographed Instagram location in Dalmatia). In the warmer part of the year, it is visited by numerous domestic and foreign kiteboarding enthusiasts (surfing with the help of wind) enjoying the wind but also the combination of sea and river. However, the Neretva estuary is not just for adrenaline junkies. The sand islands have inspired numerous artists to create masterpieces on them for several years. This year, the Sand Art Festival will be held again, and you can find all the details on the website of the tourist board of this destination!

''Although we are not a classic Mediterranean town, but rather a combination of somewhat incompatible things, we in Ploče have something to be proud of. In Ploče you will always feel at home, park your car for free in the very center, find accommodation more affordable in apartments that are happy to welcome guests. In addition, it is very lively here most of the year. In the summer, numerous events are held, the world-famous Boat Race ends in Ploče, and when it gets colder, if you come to us, you will be delighted by the tangerine harvest" - says Maja Erak, director of the Ploče Tourist Board.

In a pleasant walk, Maja shows the city with special enthusiasm, and through green oases and parks all roads lead to another pearl of the city - the longest waterfront in Croatia. It serves as a promenade, a point from which you can see the ferry that takes passengers to the island of Trpanj, a place of numerous meetings, representing a unique line that connects the past and the future, modern and traditional. As you walk along the waterfront, the path will lead you to the Local History Collection, which tells the story of Ploče's origin through an interesting exhibition. It will also turn your gaze to the Church of the Queen of Heaven and Earth, consecrated by Pope John Paul II.

The combination of sea, river and fields - how to describe Ploče in gastronomic terms - significantly shapes the gastronomy. Everything here smells 'home-made', whether you want pancakes or pizza baked in a bread oven and served unusually, here you will eat snails, eels and frogs prepared traditionally - in the popular brudet with homemade polenta. For gourmets, the well-known gastronomic address Teta Olga, which has been in this place for almost fifty years, is a well-known one.

On the road connecting north and south, the couple Olga and Josip Vučić opened a restaurant in 1968. Even then, they served only local food, what was caught in the Neretva or in the sea, what grew in the Jezero field on the way to Vrgorac. As it was then, when Aunt Olga cooked and Josip welcomed guests, so it is today, when they are no longer physically present. For almost thirty years, the restaurant has been run by Darko Šetka, to whom this couple trusted to rent the premises.

Whenever you stop by, you will be greeted by a smiling host who will provide a thorough assessment of what you can expect in terms of food. If you indulge in this gastronomic connoisseur, know that you will eat something you will never forget. Brodet with frogs and eel, grilled eel with Swiss chard, fried frogs in a special tempura or something from the sea. Finally, you will sweeten the day with pancakes and a healthy version of 'Toblerone chocolate', which is made from figs in Ploče. You will find it in the beautiful modern tasting room of the owner Toma Ostojić, who transforms the traditional fruit of this region into a delicious dessert.

And so, while you are sitting at Tete Olga's, or watching the sunset at Ušće, you will remember the day spent at this destination. There is so much to experience here, so much to feel, wondering who was in Ploče rating it as the ugliest town in Croatia?

Photos: NIkola Zoko