Tavern Mrgani 42: A place where Istria is still cooked slowly, in the local way
On the way through the Istrian interior, between the stone villages and the reddish soil that has nourished this region for centuries, it is easy to miss the small town of Mrgani not far from Kanfanar. However, once you turn towards number 42, you will discover a tavern that does not try to be something it is not. Here, they do not seek spectacle, but rather preserve the most valuable things: home-made taste, family stories and the feeling that you have come to someone's home, and not just to a restaurant.
The tavern Mrgani 42 opened six years ago, although its story begins much earlier. "We started 20 years ago, little by little, year by year," say the owners Damir and Mara Cerin. The idea at the beginning was not to create a large tavern. The plan was simple – a few tables, a small family tavern and enough work for the two of them.
However, the guests recognized the effort, and the tavern grew naturally. Today, it is a place that attracts local guests, Istrians, Slovenians and Italians, during the summer, while in the winter it is open on weekends, with the warmth of the fireplace and the special atmosphere of old Istrian taverns.
Damir Cerin did not come to the world of gastronomy by chance. He worked as a chef for years, including as head chef at Maistra. Today, he brings his experience from professional kitchens to his own tavern, but without losing touch with tradition.
"We never thought it would be this big. We thought five or six tables, enough for us," he recalls.
Mara has also been involved in the hospitality industry all her life - she worked as a waitress, and today, together with Damir, she runs a tavern where you can feel the family's signature. The new generation is also involved in the story, son Roberto, who runs his own business, but helps out when needed.
In Mrgani, it is known that there is no good house without good people. That is why Erik Mišan, a young waiter from the area, is also an important part of the team, welcoming guests with Istrian directness and professionalism.
First on our table is what best represents this region – a platter of Istrian cheese and prosciutto. There is no unnecessary decoration. Quality local products, the smell of mature prosciutto, the characteristic taste of Istrian cheese and a glass of Malvasia are enough. With the platter, we tasted Malvazija Prodan, a wine that went well with the traditional flavors of Istria – fresh, fragrant and expressive enough to accompany both cheese and meat delicacies.
Istrian prosciutto is one of the most recognizable symbols of local gastronomy, and its uniqueness lies in its simplicity and patience. Unlike many other prosciuttos, Istrian prosciutto is dried without smoking, in the bora wind and fresh Istrian air, where months of natural ripening create its recognizable aroma, delicate texture and balanced taste. On the platter at the Mrgani 42 tavern, prosciutto comes in its best form, richly sliced, with homemade cheese and a glass of Malvasia, as an introduction to the flavors of Istria, rooted in tradition, time, and respect for food.
A special little experience was the strawberry brandy – homemade, aromatic and fruity, although not too sweet, one of those glasses that are not drunk for the alcohol, but for the memory they leave behind. With the stone wall of the tavern and more and more visitors as the evening approached, we enjoyed this drop, which speaks to the owner's culinary imagination.
The main part of the lunch brought what people come to Mrgani for – traditional Istrian cuisine.
Fuži with chicken is a dish that takes us back to older times, when Sunday lunch was prepared slowly and when pasta from the kitchen and homemade meat were the basis of the table. It is precisely such dishes that Damir associates with his childhood. “Grandma used to make gnocchi, žličnjake, šugo od koši, maneštra… Everything that was in boškarin, only more,” he recalls.
Then one of the symbols of Istria arrives on the table – boškarin with gnocchi. Istrian beef requires time, knowledge and patience, and in Mrgani it is prepared with respect for the food. It is no coincidence that the tavern has a special book dedicated to boškarin and collaborates with the farmers. "We have to cooperate with them; we belong to it," they say. In addition to boškarin and pasta, among the most popular dishes are steaks, fillets, mixed meat, as well as the seasonal offer that changes with the time of year. In winter, dishes such as kapuž, sausages, and jota come to the table, while spring brings seasonal ingredients such as asparagus.
The name of the place itself has an interesting history. As the hosts explain, the village was once called Morgani, after the old surname Morgan. The name has changed throughout history, but the spirit of the place has remained the same. And it is precisely this spirit that can be felt in the tavern. Mrgani 42 is not a place that tries to follow passing trends. Their philosophy is simple - good food, proven recipes and guests who will return. "We are not expanding anymore. Enough. We have to make sure that everything is right," they say.
At a time when many restaurants are looking for new ways to attract attention, Mrgani 42 is going the opposite way. Here, attention is not sought, it comes by itself, through a plate of fuži, the smell of boškarin, a glass of malvasia and conversation at the table. Because a true Istrian tavern is never just a place to eat. It is a place where stories are kept.
Konoba “Mrgani 42“
Mjesto: Mrgani
Kontakt: +385 91 517 7090 i +385 91 152 6034
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