Autumn on Silba

Silba – the Pearl of Zadar is an island situated in the Zadar archipelago, between the islands of Premuda and Olib. Known as the northernmost Dalmatian island, or the “Gateway to Dalmatia”, it covers an area of about 15 km² with a coastline stretching over 25 km, and captivates with its distinct character. The island’s shape resembles the figure eight, the symbol of infinity, which seems symbolic – once you fall in love with Silba, you wish the moment could last forever. In the narrowest part of the island, which is only about 800 metres wide, around 300 people live there throughout the year. In the summer, thousands of visitors from around the world arrive to enjoy its unspoiled beauty. Even the long, warm, and sunny autumn invites you to discover the island’s charms.

Silba has no hotels, hostels, large shops, or campsites, which gives it a special, authentic allure. Accommodation is mostly in private houses and flats, where many warm friendships with local hosts are formed. Particular care is taken of water, cleanliness, and locally sourced food. Saša Lukić from the Silba Voluntary Fire Brigade proudly noted that this year they did not have a single fire intervention – clear proof that Silba attracts those who respect and cherish its natural environment.

The island is entirely a pedestrian zone: cars are prohibited, and bicycles are permitted only outside the high season. Goods are transported by tractors and traditional handcarts, adding to the idyllic atmosphere. Silba is linked to the mainland by ferry and catamaran services connecting it with Zadar and Pula.

Silba nurtures a rich seafaring tradition, reflected in the many captains’ houses, now restored and adapted for modern living. These houses tell the story of past maritime power, tradition, and the high standard of life once enjoyed here. A special symbol of the island is the Toreta, or “Tower of Love”, built in the 19th century. It tells the touching story of Captain Petar Marinić’s love for Dominika Rasol. Climbing the tower is free of charge, and the spectacular view stretches across Silba, the neighbouring islands of Premuda, Olib, and Lošinj, and the endless blue of the Adriatic.

Next to Toreta stands the open-air gallery of renowned artist Marija Ujević, inspired by the island’s beauty and leaving her artistic mark upon it. A similar role is played by Smiljana Sindičić, whose small gallery in the village centre welcomes many visitors. You will spot her easily – Smiljana, affectionately known as Smilja, often dresses in the traditional Silba folk costume (the bridal gown with a small coat embroidered with red flowers), with which she introduces the story of the island’s heritage and souvenirs.

The Silba dance (Silbenski tanac) is a traditional dance, proudly handed down from generation to generation. Dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries, it is performed in pairs to the sound of the accordion, led by the “Capo di ballo” who guides the other couples in movement and dance. Though it has changed over the centuries, its authenticity and significance are preserved by the folklore ensemble “Silba”, founded in 1969. The dance may be seen and experienced during the island’s feast day on 9 August, at folk performances, church festivities, and weddings. It has been officially recognised as intangible cultural heritage of the Republic of Croatia.

On Silba, the Society for the Protection of Natural and Cultural Heritage “Samotvorac” is active, with art historian Jelena Stošić as one of its members. Through exhibitions, research, and education, Jelena promotes the island’s unique building tradition, particularly the captain’s houses that have shaped Silba's appearance and its distinct island identity. Constructed mainly in the 18th and 19th centuries, these houses combine urban refinement with rural lifestyle. Their courtyards, stone paving, rainwater cisterns, and medicinal herbs tell of the wealth of Silba’s seafarers and the traditions they maintained.

In one such house lives Gabriela Cox, a German who settled permanently on Silba with her husband after retirement. Their home is like a small museum, which she gladly shows to visitors, while also demonstrating how she regularly turns old denim into creative souvenirs. Her denim bags, paintings, and bedspreads are much-loved mementoes for visitors who take them home as keepsakes of the island. Another long-time Silba family is the Hawlinas from Slovenia, who have been holidaying here for nearly half a century. Their authentic home is free of modern trappings, and their music often turns the island’s streets into enchanting soundscapes.

For 65 summers, Mirza Ellenbogen, a spirited Viennese lady, has been spending her holidays on Silba. As she likes to say with humour, she is “just three years shy of 100”. For the past two decades, she has organised charity concerts on the island, helping its year-round residents. With her vitality and spirit, she has become a true emblem of Silba. The sounds of modern jazz are brought by Davor and Mia Herceg, while Italian artist Massimo Marchiori transforms plastic collected on Silba’s beaches into unique artworks exhibited across Italy.

Following this example, Sara Šimunac Vukušić, a young Silba-born artist, has become a fine example of creativity and ecological awareness among the younger generation. She began her artistic journey as a child, drawing, painting, and collecting microplastics left behind by summer visitors. By combining these materials with her art, she creates unique souvenirs from recycled plastic, reminding everyone of the importance of caring for the environment.

Silba is a place where history, nature and tradition blend into one. This artistic and ethical bond with nature is also evident in the work of other island creatives such as Želimir Perović, who makes authentic souvenirs from recycled Benkovac stone. His handcrafted Dalmatian stone cottages, Toreta towers, lighthouses, and even models of the island itself are carefully fashioned as lasting symbols of Silba and Dalmatian heritage.

Another creative spirit is Katarina Perović, who produces jewellery inspired by her deep bond with nature and respect for the island’s cultural legacy. Using traditional techniques such as embroidery, weaving, and glass-bead embellishment, she creates contemporary pieces enriched with ethno aesthetics. For her, jewellery-making is a journey through time and space, with each item telling a story of nature’s beauty and cultural heritage.

Silba also “breathes fragrance” throughout the year, as discovered by Antonela Lopac, who moved to the island for love and made it her home. She has created the Selbo brand – natural cosmetics inspired by Silba’s unspoilt environment, free of harmful ingredients, nurturing and renewing for the skin, and packaged in recyclable glass. Selbo is a tribute to nature, wild herbs, and the scents of Silba – a cherished memory for all who love the island.

The island also has a distinctive flavour. Several restaurants serve local specialities, but advance booking is essential, even outside the main season. In the centre, the aromas of brodetto, “peka”, and grilled fish draw you to Leggiero and Vila Velebita, while Nubeno offers a modern twist. By the ferry and catamaran pier, Konoba Alavija is the place for coffee, a slice of lemon cake at sunset, or a five-course journey through tradition.

On the way to the centre, the terrace of Restaurant Žalić attracts attention, while on the other side of the island food lovers savour Konoba Mul in the harbour. Those preferring a quick bite with cocktails opt for Del Mar. Long-time favourites also include the island’s famous crispy doughnut (“piroška” or homemade krafna) with lemonade at Oaza, and the delicious pizza baked daily at Turist – the only eatery open all year round.

In addition to cultural heritage, Silba delights with its pristine nature and biodiversity. Pine forests, olive groves, and fragrant herbs such as myrtle and immortelle give the island its Mediterranean charm. Its indented coastline boasts crystal-clear seas and many beaches, the most famous being the pebble Šotorišće with its sandy seabed. Silba is a popular destination for walking and for experiencing natural wonders such as the spectacular sunsets that remain long in memory. The 20,000 Miles association is dedicated to researching and protecting the marine environment, shedding light on the richness of Silba’s undersea world.

The island offers many opportunities for active holidays – from walking, jogging along the coast, fishing, and diving, to simple strolls through natural beauty and historic pathways. All this is in harmony with the quiet and unhurried pace of life, offering busy urban dwellers a return to essential values and the enjoyment of life. As summer wanes, Silba prepares for autumn – a season of peace and natural balance. Autumn brings colourful landscapes, mild temperatures ideal for exploring, warm seas still inviting for swimming, and tranquil sunsets. Silba’s natural beauty can be discovered by wandering its stone-paved lanes, or by hiring a boat from Rent a Boat Silba, run by Ana and Šime Baljak, who also organise the island’s biggest autumn event – the Big Game Fishing, traditionally held on the last weekend of September.

Photos: Nikola Zoko and private album