Gastro Rijeka - a mix of sea, tradition, and mountains

When you are in Rijeka, you will be greeted by the aromas of maneštra and jota, fish and meat, fritule, kroštule, lamb and fresh vegetables. Here you will eat the finest squid you have ever tasted and discover that even an ordinary pizza seems to have an unusual flavour. In Rijeka you will encounter the famous Rijeka cream slice, enjoy an excellent tiramisu, and—while savouring the delightful chocolate dessert Rigojanči—hear the story of a Roma violinist in love and a recipe more than one hundred years old. In Rijeka the recipe has been passed down from generation to generation in order to preserve tradition and offer gourmets a dessert that can be tasted only in this city.

As you stroll through the narrower centre of Rijeka, you will not be tempted by the smell of fast food but rather by the aromas of refined marende—light midday meals—served at special culinary addresses. You will learn about them easily: locals happily recommend them, while visitors rate them highly in internationally renowned gastronomic guides. Gastronomy in Rijeka is unique, so when you visit the city, take your time and surrender to its distinctive pleasures.

It is precisely because of these remarkable flavours—the meeting of traditional and modern cuisine, sea and mountains—that Kvarner has officially become the European Region of Gastronomy, the only one in Croatia to hold this title. The prestigious recognition was awarded by the International Institute of Gastronomy, Culture, Arts and Tourism (IGCAT) based in Spain. The award also confirms the long-term work of the Kvarner Tourist Board in promoting local food and wine, educating chefs and winemakers, and developing regional quality labels. The peak of the project “Kvarner – European Region of Gastronomy” will be in 2026, when the region will host numerous events and festivals presenting its culinary diversity, innovation and tradition.

Rijeka’s restaurants have been recognised for years in international guides such as Michelin and Gault & Millau, while one of the most popular projects of the Rijeka Tourist Board, created within the framework of this recognition, is the initiative “Rijeka’s Gastronomic Ports.” It brings together 42 restaurants, each telling its own unique story and forming a vibrant mosaic of culinary diversity.

“Today gastronomy is an essential part of the tourist experience and one of the key motivations for visiting a destination. In recent years Rijeka has made significant progress in developing its gastronomic offer, and projects such as Rijeka’s Gastronomic Ports demonstrate how local heritage can be transformed into an authentic and modern tourism product. We are particularly pleased that this is the year in which Kvarner holds the title of European Capital of Gastronomy, which further confirms the quality and potential of our region. Together with restaurateurs and partners, we continue to develop the diversity and quality of our offer in order to attract new visitors and strengthen Rijeka’s position as a gastronomic destination,” says Petar Škarpa, Director of the Rijeka Tourist Board—whose advice on what to taste in the very centre of the city we gladly followed.

In the heart of the Grand Hotel Bonavia, both locals and international guests praise the à la carte restaurant Kamov, dedicated to the legendary writer Janko Polić Kamov. The space combines Rijeka’s literary heritage with a contemporary gastronomic spirit, attracting both hotel guests and local diners who visit this culinary oasis with particular enthusiasm. The focus here is on local and seasonal ingredients, with the aim of interpreting Kvarner cuisine while respecting tradition.

In the heart of the Grand Hotel Bonavia, both locals and international guests praise the à la carte restaurant Kamov, dedicated to the legendary writer Janko Polić Kamov. The space combines Rijeka’s literary heritage with a contemporary gastronomic spirit, attracting both hotel guests and local diners who visit this culinary oasis with particular enthusiasm. The focus here is on local and seasonal ingredients, with the aim of interpreting Kvarner cuisine while respecting tradition.

The kitchen is led by Ante Štorić, a new chef with more than ten years of experience. His style—clean, thoughtful and rooted in local traditions—is characterised by attention to detail, seasonality and a balanced harmony of flavours. For a cold starter he presents carpaccio of octopus and cuttlefish with crisp salad, capers and Parmesan, as well as smoked sea bream fillet. Warm starters include ravioli with scampi in creamy sauces, while the main course features gratinated sea bream fillet with basil served alongside a ratatouille of seasonal vegetables.

Desserts? Light, seasonal selections with balanced flavours, including the famous Rijeka kremšnita. This gastronomic pleasure is complemented by local aperitifs and wines. What is particularly impressive is that, although it is located within a hotel, this restaurant has become an important culinary address in Rijeka.

Alongside classic restaurants that cultivate fine dining, Rijeka’s gastronomy also thrives in charming small restaurants, trattorias and bistros where food is enjoyed in a truly umami way. Not far from the Korzo, for instance, lies Conca d’Oro, a restaurant located in a charming passageway. As soon as you step inside you will smell pizza as well as fish specialities. Turn left for pizza or right for an excellent selection of seafood—from warm starters such as risotto to monkfish complemented by fresh vegetables. For younger visitors, as well as those looking for something quick yet local, in the middle of the Korzo (Riva 6) you will find Bistro Štorija, where modern and traditional cuisine meet. Here you can try the iconic Rijeka breakfast, vegan bites, poke bowls and a variety of burgers.

Not far from the harbour, the welcoming staff of Restaurant Mornar will open their doors to you. Both locals and visitors praise this place because, in its pleasant interior, guests can enjoy dishes prepared from ingredients available that very day. The menu highlights fresh fish, scampi and seafood grilled over an open flame, giving the restaurant authenticity and creativity.

What you eat today may not appear in Mornar’s nets tomorrow, so when the staff offer you something freshly caught that day—even if it is not listed on the menu—accept it. On the other side of the building, opposite the iconic Exportdrvo, you will find another gastronomic gem and a member of Rijeka’s Gastronomic Ports where exceptional marende are served.

Konoba Na Kantunu will delight you with fried squid rings that melt in the mouth served with kale, shark fillet with parsnip purée, and black risotto with a deep umami flavour. All marende are offered at a single price of 12 euros, something the owner Željka is particularly proud of. From the day the restaurant opened—now 26 years ago—her wish has been to make Rijeka’s gastronomic pleasures accessible to everyone.

Konoba Na Kantunu will delight you with fried squid rings that melt in the mouth served with kale, shark fillet with parsnip purée, and black risotto with a deep umami flavour. All marende are offered at a single price of 12 euros, something the owner Željka is particularly proud of. From the day the restaurant opened—now 26 years ago—her wish has been to make Rijeka’s gastronomic pleasures accessible to everyone.

Photos: Nikola Zoko