Knin makes its wine scene

Burnum is an ancient and highly significant Roman fortified camp located in the village of Ivoševci, in the wider Knin area. Referring to this important archaeological site, which is at least fifteen centuries old (it is known that the 20th and later the 11th Roman Legions were stationed here, and an aqueduct stretching 32 kilometres from the springs in Plavno Field to the camp was built), the founders of the winery chose this very name. The remnants of Burnum, in the form of two stone arches, are now featured on the winery’s labels. Nikola Damjanić, who has lived and worked in Slovenia for decades, decided in 2010, together with around twenty friends, to establish PZ "Vrbničko selo"; the current manager is Anđelka Amanović Milinović.

Work on clearing and ploughing the karst terrain at the Pirovišta site began in 2014, and that same year six hectares of vineyards and seven hectares of almonds were planted on the plateau between the villages of Vrbnik and Ramljani. As the area is karstic and temperatures were already rising year on year, they sought an underground spring and found one at a depth of 200 metres, enabling irrigation of the vineyard during droughts.

In selecting grape varieties, his Slovenian winemaking friends from the Goriška Brda region played a significant role, particularly Silvano Peršolja from Kleti Dobrova. They opted primarily for international red and white varieties, planting 5,000 Merlot vines, 3,000 Cabernet Sauvignon and Babić each, and 750 vines each of Cabernet Franc and Carmenère. Additionally, 1,000 Plavac Mali vines were planted, which after a few years were vinified as Vranac. Among white varieties, around 5,000 Chardonnay vines, 3,500 Pošip, 3,000 Maraština, and about 3,000 Viognier—a variety rarely found in Croatia—were planted. Notably, they chose not to plant Debit, a local variety from this part of Dalmatia, as their winemaking philosophy for red and white cuvées follows the Bordeaux style for reds, while the whites reflect the Mediterranean character (Pošip, Maraština) with a significant Rhône component (Viognier).

The winery in Vrbnik is housed in the old primary school building, with seven guest rooms above for tourists. From the outset, Burnum has focused on producing cuvées and sparkling wines rather than single-variety wines. Alongside Ms Amanović, the wines are overseen by the renowned oenologist Miodrag Hruškar. Average annual production exceeds 25,000 litres, roughly evenly split between red and white wines, with around 5,000 bottles of sparkling wine. The wines are primarily distributed to hospitality venues in Šibenik-Knin County, at the winery, and in Slovenia.

The winery is well on its way in terms of wine quality. At the “Vrijeme je ZA…” workshop in Šubićeva Street, Zagreb, one of Croatia’s most esteemed oenologists, Franjo Francem, commented explicitly on the whites: “The wines are very high quality in both aroma and taste. The cuvée is dominated by Viognier, reflecting the Rhône style. The character is recognisable in both vintages. I was pleasantly surprised by the Babić sparkling wine, which is warm, fresh, elegant, and easy to drink…”

During the workshop, we tasted seven labels: the 2021 Babić Sparkling Burnum at 11% ABV, followed by the first white cuvée, Cuvée Bijeli Burnum 13.5% (35% Chardonnay, 30% Pošip, 20% Viognier, 15% Maraština), a second white cuvée with the same composition, Cuvée Crni Burnum 2021 at 13.5% (40% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 15% Carmenère), Cuvée Crni Burnum 2020 at 14% (same composition), Cuvée Crni Burnum 2018 at 14%, and finally a sweet dessert wine, Burnum 2021 at 16% ABV.

The 2021 Babić sparkling wine at 11% ABV rested on the lees for about two years. It is well balanced, with a fresh nose and fruity, light-bodied palate with good acidity. Workshop participants generally considered it successful and surprisingly good, an excellent value at €14 per bottle at the winery.

Cuvée Bijeli Burnum 2022 at 13.5% shows well-integrated alcohol and a blend of the four varieties mentioned earlier. Each variety is vinified separately before blending. The wine is golden yellow with green reflections, indicating good acidity. It is clear, with a rich aroma of Mediterranean fruit—apricot, mango—and has a mid-plus finish with further ageing potential. The Rhône character is noticeable. Gastronomic pairing suggested: octopus salad or monkfish in wine sauce.

Cuvée Crni Burnum 2021 at 13.5% ABV has a vivid colour, with forest fruit and tertiary notes of cocoa, leather, coffee, and wood. It is fresh, with violet tones, good acidity, fine fruit, and elegant body. The tannin structure is noticeable and, combined with its freshness, offers good ageing potential. Recommended pairing: aged rump steak with salt, pepper, and potatoes. Price at the winery: €15.

Cuvée Crni Burnum 2018 at 14% ABV is a clear garnet wine with an intense aroma of cranberries, blackcurrants, blackberries, and spices (pepper). The palate is fruity with pronounced tannins, lively acidity, and a long finish. The wine is at its peak, having matured for 24 months in Slavonian and Italian oak barrels.

Importantly, the wines are produced organically and have generally not been submitted for ratings. At this year’s Decanter awards, they narrowly missed a bronze medal for Crni Burnum 2020, scoring 84 points. At a recent Wine Stars tasting in Zagreb, they were champions with the 2020 Red Cuvée, silver with the sparkling wine, and gold with the 2018 dessert Burnum Crni.

Finally, to quote Francem on Burnum’s red wines once more: “The black wines from 2018 and 2021 are modern wines with exceptional tannins. They are very interesting, characterful, with fruitiness, acidity, and a sense of terroir. You are on the right path and should continue as you have been.” It is likely that others from the region will soon follow Burnum’s lead, utilising the terroir—temperature and other natural advantages of this area, bounded by Dinara to the north and Promina to the south.