The Festival of Bribir Presnac

Just one step from the sea and two from the snow lies the Municipality of Vinodol – a charming destination made up of four settlements that tell the story of the Frankopan family, the life and work of Juraj Julije Klović, and a place where the winds of sea and mountain meet. It is also where you will encounter the aroma of Bribir presnac, a traditional savoury “cake” that has been kneaded and baked for centuries in the kitchens of diligent local women.

“There was hardly an occasion in our region without Bribir presnac being baked. It marked the birth of a child, accompanied the departed on their final journey, welcomed guests, and brought families together on Sundays and feast days. Traditionally, no Easter passed without it appearing on the table, made with plenty of eggs, fine flour, and a combination of bacon and škripavac cheese.

It is precisely because of the importance of Bribir presnac in our region that every Easter Monday the Festival of Bribir Presnac is held in the centre of Bribir, where this delicacy takes centre stage,” says Alenka Spoje, Director of the Vinodol Tourist Board. She adds that on Easter Monday, 6 April, numerous producers and lovers of tradition will gather in front of the Frankopan Tower Turan to taste presnac and enjoy an excellent programme.

A special attraction is the opportunity to win a prize – a seven-day Adriatic cruise organised by the Katarina Line travel agency from Opatija. More active visitors can take part in an Easter cycling tour through the landscapes of Vinodol. Alongside the festival, the interpretation centre in the Turan Tower – part of the Paths of the Frankopans route – will also be open, presenting the story of the Vinodol Code, one of the most important legal documents of medieval Europe.

The story of Bribir presnac – “a cake that is actually savoury” – takes us back to the time when the Frankopans ruled the Vinodol region. It was an era of modest living, when cuisine relied on what was readily available: eggs, cheese, a little flour, and, in better times, some cured meat. According to oral tradition still told in Bribir, presnac was created by accident – when a cat jumped onto the Easter table, scattering the ingredients. The housewife gathered everything, placed it in a dish, and baked it.

Soon, an irresistible aroma spread through her kitchen, and everyone wanted to taste what had been made. Because of the “fresh” (prisni) ingredients – especially the škripavac cheese – the dish came to be known as Bribir presnac. The recipe spread throughout Bribir and the wider Vinodol region, gradually evolving. Today, cooks such as Katarina Marina, owner of Vagabundina Koliba, prepare it using eggs, cheese, pancetta, and spring onions.

Her version of presnac is one of the reasons you may find yourself leaving the centre of Bribir and heading into the nearby forest in search of a gastronomic haven where, alongside presnac, hearty and local dishes are served year-round. During this season, presnac is often paired with soup made from wild herbs (such as nettle and wild garlic), accompanied by game cold cuts and kiseliš – a mix of pickled wild garlic buds, dandelion, and cornelian cherry.

A visit to Bribir opens the door to a rich cultural, historical, and natural heritage. To begin, it is worth climbing one of the viewpoints from the Eyes of Vinodol project, such as the Slipica viewpoint. The views – stretching across Velebit, the Kvarner islands, and the Vinodol valley – perfectly embody the slogan “a step from the sea, two from the snow”.

If you are fond of art and culture, do not miss the Klović House in Grižane, dedicated to the Renaissance artist and miniaturist Juraj Julije Klović, who was born here. Its museum collection tells a fascinating story not only of the region’s history but also of his artistic influence.

For active leisure, there is Lake Tribalj – a paradise for anglers, cyclists, and nature lovers. Located just a few kilometres from the sea, it offers a unique blend of continental and coastal landscapes. Finally, the historical atmosphere is best experienced at Drivenik Castle, one of the rare preserved Frankopan fortresses dating back to the 13th century.

Walking along its walls transports visitors to a time when the Frankopan princes ruled this land, while today it also serves as a venue for numerous contemporary musical events during the summer.

foto: Nikola Zoko

How is Bribir Presnac Prepared Today?

Although the recipe is centuries old, it is still prepared in much the same way today, especially as part of Easter traditions, when it is made in a richer version – with plenty of eggs, fine flour, škripavac cheese, and the addition of bacon or pancetta. Modern interpretations, however, introduce new variations, particularly those with Swiss chard, which adds a refreshing note. It can be eaten on its own or, in some local kitchens such as Vagabundina Koliba, served alongside wild herb soups, game cold cuts, and unusual pickled accompaniments like cornelian cherries and dandelion.

Until You Visit the Festival – Try the Recipe at Home

While waiting for 6 April and the opportunity to taste it in its authentic setting, you can also prepare Bribir presnac at home. The recipe was kindly provided by Katarina Marina, owner of Vagabundina Koliba.

Bribir Presnac

Ingredients:

15 eggs

one škripavac cheese

½ kg bacon

spring onions (or regular onions)

a little yeast (optional)

white flour as needed

lard

Add the yeast and cheese, cut into small pieces, to a bowl in which the eggs are being mixed. Fry the bacon and onion (also cut into small pieces) in lard until the onion softens. Once cooled, add them to the eggs and cheese, then add salt, pepper, and flour, and mix everything well

The mixture should be thick enough to fall nicely from a spoon. Pour it into a greased baking tray lined with pastry, fold the edges over the filling, and bake over a medium heat for about 45 minutes.