Hrvatska se diči svojim ribljim jelima, što je svakako pošteno i pohvalno, ali neke ribe su dičnije kao da su dičnije od drugih. Tako će mnogi kontinentalci prije svega posegnuti na tržnicama svojih gradova za morskom ribom, dok slatkovodna riba ostaje nekako u drugom planu. A i kada se govori o slatkovodnoj ribi, često se misli na zamamne fiševe i masne somove, dok se zanemaruje pastrva. A nje ima u velikim količinama, pliva u raznim ribnjacima, iznimno je pristupačna i cije

Croatia prides itself on its fish dishes, which is certainly fair and commendable, but some fish seem more savoury than others. Thus, many Croats in the continental Croatia will primarily reach out to the markets of their cities for seafood, while freshwater fish remains somehow side-lined. And when it comes to freshwater fish, it is often thought of fish stews and fatty catfish, while neglecting trout. Trout comes in large quantities, it swims in various rivers, is extremely

On the very source of River Gacka, at the Tonković Vrilo, stands one of the best restaurants in Lika, Vrilo Gacke. Apart from the setting itself, situated in beautiful surrounding of Gacka springs, small wooden bridges and mills. We arrived in the restaurant in late summer morning. Heat was taking its toll and sip of homemade plum rakija (brandy) was more than welcomed. The locals tend to believe that good rakija makes you warm in winter and cold in summer, and this one was t

The river Gacka and its valley cannot be envisaged without the mills on it. First mills in history are mentioned to be on the river in place of Švica, where Gacka sinks into the Švica lake. These mills very indeed important and the noble family of Frankopan used to give its products as a well-earned gift to the faraway monasteries. People from the far came to the mills in times of drought, for miller to mill their wheat. The life centred on these properties, and one can even

The river Gacka is tranquil and silent river, unusual for Croatian mountain flows. It springs quitly from the Tonković Vrilo and a bit smaller Klanac vrilo. From the Majerovo Vrilo comes Sinačka pučina creek, while the Pećina spring brings Kostelka creek. Gacka springs are like small lakes, with gorgeous blue colours. These springs are an unique combination of unspoiled nature and human coexistence. Locals have built small stone walls, taming the flow and making small waterfa

The hotel Zvonimir is situated in the heart of Otočac, providing the citizens and their guests a great opportunity to relax and dine in the very centre of the town. For us, however, it was an opportunity to learn more about the cuisine in the Gacka Valley. The hospitable staff of the hotel’s restaurant cared enormously for us, making sure we don’t go to bed hungry. And what a dinner it was! While already trying the old-style miller’s trout, baked in the corn flour, our main c

The centre of Gacka Valley is Town of Otočac, a small urban centre with lots of history. The famous Baška Tablet from 12th century says that the church of Saint Nicholas in Otočac was part of the order community with the Church of Saint Lucy in Jurandvor on the island of Krk. Later this was the land of the Templar Order, followed by the Croatian noble family Frankopan. In the Museum of Gacka, the town museum of Otočac, we are told the first settlement with a defence tower was

Cheese production in Lika is a long rooted tradition. In the mountain valleys of Velebit, cheese was produced according to centuries preserved knowledge and with modern equipment. Sheep, cow and goat milk from grassy pastures is foundation of various cheese and other dairy products for which Lika is famous for. Since time immemorial in this region, milk was eaten fresh (varenika) or sour (kiselina), often with bread soaked in it. Out of it came butter, cream, and cheese. The

We are driving off the main street in Otočac, eager to find out what the old women are doing in the Traditional Craft Centre. We envisage typical Croatian old women, wearing black clothes, while their hands make miracles with the wool. The disappointment is a pleasant one. Jolly voices from the rooms in the Centre bring us in to the beautifully preserved heritage space run by the NGO Gačanka. Their president, Mrs Dragica Rogić, offers us locally made brandy, and the story beg